Mdumbi. The Wild Coast!

Posted on March 31, 2016

Coffee Bay. What’s the hype all about? Previous post

March 13 – Mdumbi

After breakfast, we got together with Melissa and Philip and loaded up their little rental car (smaller than my Chev Aveo) with all our luggage. Good thing none of us are big people!

The directions seemed simple. 5 km then turn right onto a gravel road for 18 km. It was simple, just REALLY rough. We all pitied the poor little car. An hour later we reached Mdumbi back packers. Our rooms weren’t ready but we looked around and already liked it much better than Coffee Bay. Sue and I set off on a 5 km hike. Of course we got royally lost, asked directions a couple of times and did more like a 12 km hike but it was fun anyway. We saw views, beaches, forests, roads, homes and villages and chatted with a few nice people.

Back at the hostel we immediately asked for some lunch. While eating Melissa and Philip returned. They too had enjoyed an adventure trying to cross a river. We unloaded the car and thanked them again. After a hot and sweaty walk, the out door shower was a real treat.

The Transcape (Transkei) has a 94% unemployment rate and is the poorest area in the country. The hostel does it’s best to help by suggesting things to do that provide income for residents. Hot water is powered by solar panels as are some of the lights. They’ve got these really cool solar mason jars.

Madeline invited us to dinner “hippie style” which apparently means everyone contributes something and it goes into a pot. Interesting. We had a half bag of pasta yet so I gave her that. The pasta creation was delicious. We even had dessert. Someone had leftover dough ball things with chocolate that were really good.

A thunderstorm made for a great lightning show while we enjoyed conversation with fellow guests from Germany and Belgium. We all decided not to check the weather forecast in case of bad news. It’s better to get up in the morning and hope for the best.

March 14

Rain on a thatched roof is a comforting sound as is the sea pounding in the distance. We awoke to gloomy skies and walked around the property. At 7:30am children started arriving for the pre-school on the property. Some of the bolder kids grabbed Sue’s hands so I took a photo. Next thing you know I’m surrounded by kids wanting to see.

We did a morning walk down to the beach and over the rocks looking at pools and taking photos of the waves. Back at the hostel we had mussel soup for lunch. It was cool and damp and felt like a soup day.

After checking out the property we headed in a different direction, down a “road”, through some woods, past some sheep, goats and the occasional pig.

A woman invited us into her home to see her bead work. I told her we had no money with us but she welcomed us anyway. Siphokozi’s home was humble but clean. She had two rooms. One had 2 double beds, neatly made and the other a parafin single burner with a rice dish cooking away on the floor. She had 2 plastic chairs and a cupboard with pails, pots and her kids’ school certificates proudly displayed. There was at least one case of empty beer bottles. She told us that she’s hiv positive but her kids are not and asked for our support. I really didn’t know what to say. Much as I’d like to help, I don’t know that sending her money is the answer. I realize the unemployment rate is over 90% but she, her mother and aunt all just make beads. I wonder about other options. It’s such a beautiful area. If only they could capitalize on tourism. The infrastructure is just not there though. It would take someone willing to invest a lot.

Dinner was cottage pie, cabbage, squash and salad. Delicious!

Tuesday, March 15

Someone called our SA cell phone at 5 am so we were up early and decided to go for a nice long walk along the beach and up the hill. We were anticipating a long bus day.

After breakfast, we connected with Singkozi (sp?) who took us to the village and told us a bit about Xhosa culture. The Mdumbi backpackers once belonged to a church, was used as a retreat or conference centre and given to the community. The hostel rents it from the community so they all benefit from it’s presence. The hostel drilled a bore hole and shares the water with the community as well so cholera is no longer a problem. Since then the government installed more taps so people don’t have to walk so far.

He introduced us to a woman well into her 90’s. She doesn’t know how old she is but they guess based on things that happened at certain points in her life. Singkozi interpreted for us as she told us a bit about her life. Of course, she wouldn’t tell us anything until we told her what we’d pay. Smart woman. The government provides every house hold with an outhouse and a propane stove. Her roundavel was quite barren and she sleeps on a mat on the floor. Her grandaughter lives with her but sleeps in another rondavel. She gets water for her.

Singkozi is trying to start his own business and needs start up money. I suggested he find an NGO (Kiva.org ?) to lend him the money. It seemed to be a new idea to him but I told him that I too had to borrow money to start a business. Just because one lives in a “rich” country, does not mean things come easy. I hope he runs with it and succeeds. He seems very ambitious with great ideas. It is MUCH more difficult for him as there’s very little guidance in such matters in the Transkei.

We’d spent too much time chatting and had to rush to change, finish packing and head out. Singkozi dove us to Coffee Bay where we met the shuttle that took us to Mthatha. 3 hours later, through the scenic hills, we met the Baz bus after grabbing a sandwich at Steers.

When we didn’t find Moses, the fellow we’d called to arrange a shuttle, I called him.

“No” he said “you’re arriving on the 18th”. Um. Nope. We argued back and forth for a while and finally he agreed to send a car and would call me back with his arrival time. Ingrid joined us as she was also hoping for a shuttle (Moses knew nothing about her) and we went to Wimpy’s for a bite to eat. Sue and I were second guessing ourselves as Moses claimed the Sani Lodge wasn’t expecting us either. Thankfullly Wimpy’s had wifi and she checked the email reservation: 15^th to 18^th confirmed. Right.

Moses called back. We enjoyed a salad and around 8 pm he picked us up. We arrived at the lodge around 9:30 and reception was closed but there was a note on a board for us with our room details. The key was in the door and we settled in.

Another lesson learned. If it’s not in writing, get the service provider to repeat what you’ve arranged or call back to confirm. I’m pretty sure Moses didn’t really understand what I wanted in the first place or, since he was driving when I called, just wrote the date down wrong when he arrived home.

Our door shower. Nice!

People we met along the way

Cute room in Mdumbi

I could watch ocean waves all day.

Urchin

Our early morning walk fan club

Just a bit of wild life met along the way

We were strangers yet she invited us in for a visit.

Typical rondavel homes

She’s at least 90 years old

Coffee Bay. What’s the hype all about?

Posted on March 30, 2016

March 11 – Sugar Loaf in Coffee Bay

I fell asleep to the sound of rain on the thatch roof. Then woke to the increasing volume of music in the bar up the hill so …. ear plugs.

It was still raining in the morning so we dawdled over breakfast, packing and chatting with others in the hostel. Most conversations revolve around travel, where you’ve been, where you’re going and tips for “must sees” along the way.

The baz bus was a bit late and the shuttle driver for Coffee Bay called me just as we left. He was waiting already. Hmm. Apparently he had others to drop off.

It was pouring rain so a good day to be on the bus. The scenery changed again and we passed through many villages. Many didn’t appear to have roads and there were a lot of rondevals (round houses)

Patrick, the shuttle driver picked us up at the gas station and we drove again for another hour over hills, through villages and over some really rough roads.

It was still raining when we arrived at the Sugar Loaf in Coffee Bay. The place had many leaks and there was no wifi, even though the advertisement said they did. We’d counted on catching up with confirmations and various internet things here so weren’t impressed. The guy let us use his lap top for a bit to get somethings done.

Our room was a rondeval with a double bed and a set of bunk beds THREE high. I’d hate to climb on top of THAT!

March 12

The sun was shining and we hoped that maybe the earlier weather was what disappointed us about this place. Everyone along the way had said we had to go to Coffee Bay. We didn’t see it. The people are very nice and there ARE lots of hikes but you’ve got to hire a guide for all of them and most require some rock climbing. Sugar Loaf doesn’t have a kitchen so you pretty much have to buy meals and they even charge for ricoffy (fake coffee).

After breakfast, we went walking. Across a river to check out other back packers. Then up the hill to see the view. Back down to check out a water fall and into the village that was supposed to be interesting. We found it dirty and uninviting. Again, that could be due to the large amounts of rain they’d had lately as there was mud everywhere.

We’d asked several people how to get to the beach and it seemed simple but we could not find the path. The military had a camp set up and I finally asked a guy with a machine gun. He pointed out the path which was behind a huge military vehicle. No wonder we couldn’t find it.

The beach was not nearly as nice as Chintsa but the rock formations were beautiful. Some women were harvesting something among the rocks. When I asked they told me it was bait. I don’t think they had much English, so I didn’t any more info. This region has a lot of Xhosa (Kosa with a click) people.

There was a fancy hotel on the beach so we stopped for a milk shake, figuring they’d let us use the wifi if we had something. The woman didn’t want to give the code to me until I promised I just wanted to check in with my kids. I think data must be very expensive here.

A young couple we’d met before checked into the hostel and we got chatting. They were going to Mdumbe. We’d wanted to go there but couldn’t get a ride so they offered us one. Nice! I called and they still had a room so we cancelled the last 2 nights in Coffee Bay.

Pretty snake

Chintsa, under rated beautiful beaches!

Posted on March 30, 2016

March 9 – Buccaneers at Chintsa

The room might have been nice but the people were noisy. Some were chatting right out side our room till past 1 am. At 5:15 am someone used the bathroom down the hall and kept banging something. It woke me up even through ear plugs. The fluffy towel was nice but I prefer a good night’s sleep. 😦

The bus picked us up at 6:45 am and we headed for Chintsa. The baz bus was becoming a social time where we catch up people we’ve met other places along the way. Two girls (Eva and Louise) we did the Addo with were on there and we picked Sean up as well. We chatted with an American girl and a Dutch man who is planning a 6 day hike in the Drakensberg Mountains. Lots of interesting people!

We all wondered where Jay, our trusty driver was taking us today when we left the main highway onto a dirt road further and further into the jungle. Then we arrived at Buccaneers on Chintsa Beach. We said good bye to our bus mates and went to check in. This place was another great surprise. Our room was upstairs in a chalet like building. We had two beds in a room off to the side and there’s a big room in the middle with 6 beds. We had an upper deck with a great view and a kitchen downstairs with a lounge area. It was very cosy!

The village was “across the river”, which meant over a walk bridge, across a sand bar separating the lagoon from the ocean and up the other side. After checking out the supply store we went to go for lunch but the restaurant was closed. She said we could take a tuk tuk up the hill to a restaurant that was open. While we were waiting a man with 2 little girls offered us a ride as he was going there too. Why not? So we hopped in, enjoyed a chat with them and thanked him for the lift.

The waiter boxed up our left over pizza and we walked back down to the supply store and got food for pasta dinner and two breakfasts and walked back. After exploring the property, checking out the beach and options for tomorrow, we headed back and made ourselves dinner. A few others came in and we enjoyed some great chats and headed off for bed where we fell asleep to the sound of the ocean….MUCH better than our “nice” room in the city the night before.

March 10

What a great beach day! Low tide was at 10 am so we decided to check out the rocks to the right of the camp and the life in the tide pools. There was no one else on the beach until a couple came down some stairs on a dune and started poking around too. I asked the woman about star fish. We found lots of urchins so I expected to see star fish as well. She said there used to be lots of really big ones but she hasn’t seen them in a while. She then proceeded to spear a nice octopus. While they are quite tasty, it did seem a little violent when you’re just poking around.

We walked a bit further to find a tidal pool created by a resort down there and went for a nice refreshing swim.

Once back at our cottage, we enjoyed leftover pizza and headed out again to explore the left side of the beach, past Chintsa. We walked for almost two hours and didn’t see the end of the beach, nor another person. They say there’s 18 km of pristine beach! On the way back we met some people heading home after their work day. The clouds threatened to rain a few times but it didn’t hit hard until we got back, shortly before 6 pm. VERY timely!

After a shower and reheated pasta, I checked the garmin; 32,000 steps. No wonder we’re tired! We did our best to stay up past 9 pm by watching funny geckos chase each other while editing and deleting photos.

Addo Elephant National Park. MUCH more than elephants!

Posted on March 30, 2016

Nursing elephant

The wart hog is red because of the colour of the dirt.

See why they call it the blue monkey?

Yum. Green leaves. Just yum

Hello! Just showing off my nostrils.

Ostrich

Kudus

Nursing baby is almost as big as mama

This little bird looks cute but he’s actually a bird of prey and can be nasty

Monkey business

Juvenile lion proudly displaying the wart hog he hunted all by himself.

A horse in pyjamas showing me his best side

Cape buffalo

This zebra has spotted a lion but we can’t find it.

Beautiful result of erosion

This bad boy thought of charging us.

Black shouldered hawk (I think)

Kudu

March 8

Addo Elephant National Park

It was pouring rain but we were hungry and had no food so walked for about 20 minutes to a restaurant for breakfast and splurged on bacon and eggs. Yum

Back at the hostel we met our guide for the day and drove to Addo Elephant National park. What a great day! We saw lots of elephants and even saw a young lion hunt and kill a baby wart hog. It rained most of the morning but cleared in the afternoon. The lack of heat made the animals that much more active so it was great. In this case, pictures speak much better than words ever could.

Wild Spirits; a throwback to the 60’s? The Crags

Posted on March 27, 2016

Previous post:Beautiful Knysna. A lagoon that’s not a lagoon

March 4;

The breeze from the lagoon made the heat tolerable so we just walked around there for the morning, shared a pizza and went back to the hostel

The bus was late so we had some time to sit around and chat with an interesting young man who was a guide and photographer. I got some great tips from him and checked out his beautiful photos.

The Wild Spirits Lodge was a BIG surprise. It’s in the middle of nowhere at the edge of the Tsitsikama National forest. The young lady who greeted us took us for a walk around the place and then …. gave us a hug. Seems it’s a very loving place! We decided to take part in the dinner provided and that was a very good choice. The fish curry and salads were like nothing I’ve ever eaten before and DELICIOUS. We sat at a table with a young Mexican woman, a couple from Seattle and a man with a couple of kids who switched effortlessly from German with his kids to English and Spanish with us. AMAZING.

March 5

After walking to the reception area, (which is a log house with a big deck attached and trees growing through it) we made a coffee and walked to “God’s Window” to enjoy the view. Our breakfast of yogurt and muesli hit the spot and we set off to do the “Magical Forest” hike. It was tricky in spots but much cooler in the forest so thoroughly enjoyable. Apparently it’s been unseasonably warm in the area and the 35 degrees we experienced is not normal.

After enjoying a couple of cool glasses of spring water we tried the hike to the water fall. That one involved some rock climbing, dodgy bridge crossing and hanging on to rope but we made it and it was worth it. The water was “REFRESHING”. So much so that you never really get used to it. We enjoyed playing with a chameleon and just absorbing the beauty of the forest as, for a while, it was just the two of us there. A young Englishman (again, a friend of Graham?) helped Sue across the bridge.

Back at the lodge we gobbled up some humus, crackers and olives, and washed a few more clothes. The things we’d washed in the morning were already dry so we figured we’d grab the opportunity. By then we decided we deserved to just SIT, enjoy the quiet and read for a while.

None of the plugs in our room worked so we charged things in the neighbour’s room. Nobody locks anything. This is a completely different side of South Africa! A good thunder storm and sketchy internet access makes for good reading time.

At dinner we met some more nice people, this time from the Netherlands, enjoyed a delicious poitje and salad and headed for bed.

March 6

Penny drove us and an Irish fellow named Sean to the beginning of the Nature Valley hike in the Tsitsikamma forest. It was supposed to be a nice, 15 km hike with some hills but not too bad.

Well. I’d hate to see what they call a DIFFICULT hike as this one was no piece of cake. About 5 km down over some “steps” and steep grades, rocks and dirt paths, then another couple of km along and through a river bed over rocks, tree roots and seriously uneven ground. Then onto the road for 1/2 km and onto the beach. That was about 2 km through sand which is also not easy walking. We found the cafe they mentioned and had lunch there. I enjoyed calamari again. Why not? It’s delicious and cheap.

Next was the climb up. That wasn’t as bad as we thought it would be. At least the steps were reasonably decent and there weren’t huge rocks to climb over. There were even some flat spots through a forest that were pleasant.

Five and a half hours after we’d been dropped off we reached the pick up point and phoned for Penny. We were actually pretty impressed as that isn’t bad time considering we took at least an hour for lunch. 40 minutes later Penny still wasn’t there so I called again. (It’s only a 10 minute drive). Apparently she’d left? Okay. Shortly after a young man picked us up. Nobody knew where Penny had got to. Interesting.

My garmin said we walked 22,000 steps and 16 km. I think we get more points for rock climbing and giant steps. A shower never felt so good

March 7

Apparently we didn’t learn our lesson yesterday and believed them when they said the Robberg hike in Plettenberg Bay was nice and fairly easy. Well. PARTS of it were. Then there was the rock climbing again. I did okay for a while until there was a part that was pretty much vertical with steps kind of cut out of the rock but really high, with nothing to hold on to and a straight mile high cliff beside it. Nope. It was raining so I was wearing a poncho which I’d trip over if climbing a big step. NOT a great feeling that high up! We went back and found a bunch of shorter hikes with perfectly nice views. We didn’t get to see the seals but we’ve seen lots of them so weren’t too upset by it. We climbed down to see a cave too.

Back at the hostel we were entertained by some of the antics of staff and volunteers. One non shoe wearing fellow who claims he doesn’t even know what size he wears, cut his foot. A guest who happened to be a nurse cleaned it out for him with a fork. Then there were the hoola hoopers and baton twirlers. They’re quite a bunch.

The baz bus was actually on time and we arrived in Port Elizabeth around 10 pm. Tonight’s room was a bit of a splurge. We got a nice big room, our own bathroom AND a big, fluffy towel. 😀

Yep, it’s an “easy” path

View from the deck/bar/restaurant of the fire pit area

Performing surgery with a fork.

View from the walk through Nature’s valley

Goats being goats

Tree grows right up through the middle of the kitchen

Fire pit

Sketchy bridge

Waterfall! VERY refreshing.

More of the “easy” path to the waterfall

View along the Nature valley hike

Tree growing right up the middle of the kitchen

Dragon made of scrap (drift) wood

Wild Spirits lodge

Waterfall hike at Wild Spirits, The Crags

chameleon

Robberg hike in Plettenberg

Beautiful Knysna. A lagoon that’s not a lagoon

Posted on March 21, 2016

Our African journey continues from this previous post: Mossel Bay, SHARKS and blue flag beaches

Rust is pretty

March 1

Someone was up by 6 am banging around like they were rearranging furniture. Not sure how that’s possible as it’s a train and everything is attached. Oh well. We dawdled over breakfast and set out for a walk, enjoyed some ice cream and returned for a beer before the bus picked us up He was early so we ended up guzzling it before paying, grabbing our bags and getting on. I thought to ask before we left the parking lot “this bus is going to Knysna, right?” Haha. A fellow passenger assured me it was and noted it WAS a valid question and good time to ask.

After checking in at Jembjo’s along with 2 German girls we’ve met a few times and chatting with Candice, we set out to walk. We’d had McDonald’s on a stop along the way in the bus so had to walk it off. I had a big mac. I don’t remember the last I had one. YEARS.

Dinner was crackers and cream cheese. We thoroughly enjoyed a comfortable bed with TWO pillows and slept like babies. We walked over 23,000 steps today.

March 2

I fried us some eggs and it was nice to have some good protein for breakfast. After trying to make arrangements for the next couple of days we went to the water front and booked a ferry trip.

After walking around a bit we tried to have oysters but apparently they haven’t caught many lately so nobody had them. So, calamari it was. We’ve eaten calamari pretty much every day for the last week. It’s one of the cheapest things to eat around here and REALLY good.

The ferry started out really lame. We motored slowly around the lagoon (Knysna estuary) then landed at Feather bed nature reserve. There we boarded a wagon train thing pulled by a big wheeled tractor like thing. It would it’s way slowly up the hill. We stopped for a view and were told not to get off but I couldn’t get a decent photo from where I sat, so I got off. I”m such a rebel. 😛

The walk down was awesome and worth the whole trip. It was a couple of km down with a couple of optionals, which of course we did.

There was a group of Grade 7 students with us from Oudsshorn on a week trip up the coast. They were busy but really nice kids who sang on the way back in the boat. They started with the National Anthem in both Africans and English and then resorted to Rudolph the Red nosed reindeer and Hello (Adelle). They even harmonized!

We walked around some more and went for dinner on the Quay at a fish restaurant. It was just fish and vegetables but so many that we could barely finish it. Nice!

I enjoyed a shower and dried off with a REAL towel provided by the hostel. LUXURY!

March 3;

I made us some eggs again and we tried to sort out the next couple of weeks over breakfast. Planning is hard work. I have a whole new respect for Travel agents 🙂

Some young men from Buffels Baai (Buffalo Bay) picked us up for our snorkeling trip at 9 am. We had no idea what we were in for. We arrived and saw beach. Nice. That looks good. Nope. We walked around to the other side and entered the sea from the rocks. Our soft Canadian feet weren’t as tough as Callum’s so we wore our shoes and left them on the rocks. Finally IN the ocean we swam around and saw a bit but the visibility steadily declined and the sea got rougher and rougher. Some of the swells were well over a metre high. Coming back in was even harder. I felt bad for Sue, as she’s not that comfortable in the water to begin with. Callum nicely helped her but we sure got battered by waves. By the time we climbed out, she was exhausted. THAT was an ADVENTURE! We didn’t see much, besides a few fish, a couple of puffer fish, urchins, star fish and pretty rocks but we got a work out!

The afternoon was spent walking through the Pledge Nature Reserve. You walk through town and it’s right off a main street. There are paths all through it, a stream, a pond and a nice big hill from which to view the lagoon. We could see Featherbed Reserve on the other side.

After picking up some groceries for the next hostel as it’s out in the boonies somewhere, we headed back to the water front and the Ocean Basket. Last night’s dinner was so good we went back for calamari, fish and LOTS of fresh veggies for less than $15 each including tip.

Winnipeg?? Not Toronto, Ottawa …. but Winnipeg?

Featherbed Nature reserve

Featherbed national plark

Protea. South Africa’s national flower.

I don’t know how those kids got out there but they’re having fun!

Mossel Bay, SHARKS and blue flag beaches

Posted on March 2, 2016

Feb 27 The journey continues. Previous post is here Cape Point, Good Hope and Penguins!! Cape Town adventures.

The Baz bus picked us up on time and stopped at various hostels on the way to pick up others. One girl was really late so the driver took the time to chat and get to know where everyone is from. He even taught us a few Xhosa (one of S.A’s 11 official languages) words. None of them had the “click” which I find impossible to repeat.

We took the time to back up work on photos and consider future stops. It’s not easy while speeding down the windy, hilly, garden route highway.

We checked into our hostel; a de-railed train on the beach in Mossel Bay. It’s tiny, the beds aren’t that comfy but it’s different. Apparently it’s a place for “eccentrics”. I guess that means us. Why not?

We set out for a long walk on the beach, chatted with a local man where I asked the silly question “which ocean IS this?” Apparently not so silly. In Mossel Bay, it’s the Indian ocean. The two oceans meet a mere hundred km or so away.

The rhythmic sound of the crashing waves put us right to sleep. Life is good on the beach.

Feb 28

We’d arranged to cage shark diving with White Shark Africa, really not knowing what we were in for.. I asked why when the lady at the hostel told us we needed to bring our passports. She said it was so they’d have our info if they need to inform our next of kin when we didn’t return. Funny lady.

After being fed a nice snack of assorted fish and calamari, we boarded the boat for seal island where we anchored. The first couple hours were uneventful so I amused myself taking cute photos of seals. They’re very amusing and get up to some funny antics. They also smell really bad.

Jan worked hard chumming the water enticing the sharks to come. Then the shark showed up. The first 6 people donned wet suits and jumped in the cage. Then it was our turn. We weren’t so sure. It didn’t look easy to get in and out of but, we paid for this. A nice young Englishman said “don’t worry.. I’ll help you get out. You’ve got to do it!” We’re here. Let’s do it. Just one other guy was in with us. Nothing happened. It seemed the shark had left. Suddenly those on the boat shouted “Get down!” so we held our breath and ducked under water..

Out of nowhere he came right at us, whacked the cage with a fin, flipped his tail at us and took off. WOW! We all came up with a “HOLY CRAP!”

Some on the boat were jealous. Others were scared for us. Others were too busy puking from sea sickness to notice. WE were EXCITED! Maybe it was the adrenaline but getting out wasn’t as difficult as we thought. The nice young Englishman had even taken a few photos with my camera.

Back in port we watched the video but decided it really didn’t capture it well so passed on that expense and decided to go back and enjoy a beer instead.

Feb 29

This morning’s aim was to hike the Baize trail. It started out fine with a nice walk on a water front trail around the point and up to the caves. Then the trail got a little dodgy so we turned around to find a road to the light house. We looked a little lost so a man in his driveway came up and asked if he could help. We had a nice chat about the trail, golfing, the light house, etc and decided the trail was likely a bit too scary for us. Pieces are missing. There’s no handrails and it’s on a cliff that descends hundreds of feet to the ocean. So, we continued on our way to the light house and then walked back through town.

3.5 hours later we were back at the train lodge so went for a refreshing swim. There we met another man who we asked about places to eat and again, had a nice chat in the water while being battered by waves.

After lunch of calamari (again. Hey, it’s really good!) we did some beach walking, swimming, reading and just relaxing for a change. We ARE on the beach!

That night in the shower I found sand in lots of places. Gotta love the ocean.

Santos Beach, a Blue Flag beach in Mossel Bay

I don’t know how those kids got out there but they’re having fun!

Our “cozy” room

African fur seals

Seal island. Shark food.

Close encounter!

Just before the cage got rammed by a great white shark

The Santos Express….our accommodation in Mossel Bay

Sand sculptures

Crashing waves

Crashing waves

The light house WAY up there above the cave

Rock dassie posing. Did you know his closest relative is the ELEPHANT??

view from the light house

View from the light house

Cape Point, Good Hope and Penguins!! Cape Town adventures.

Posted on February 29, 2016

Feb 25^th

We took an action packed tour to Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope, the most South Western point in Africa. There were several stops along the way including a visit to the Boulders. Here is where the Africa Jackass penguins hang out. They’re making a comeback but are still on the endangered species list. If you hear them, you understand why they were named “jack ass”. Too funny!

South Africans love their picnics so we enjoyed a snack with a view from Chapman’s Peak Road which is absolutely beautiful and definitely worth doing. Lunch was at Cape Point nature reserve.

We hiked to a lighthouse and learned a lot about the history of the Cape. Hundreds of ships have been destroyed there. The Atlantic Ocean is colder in summer due to prevailing winds and melting ice in Antarctica. A couple of brave souls took a dip but 14 degrees is too cold for this Canuck!

Back in town we got some groceries for dinner and stopped at the wine store where I got to taste more wine. I don’t need to buy any. The tastes I get every night are enough for me 😉

View of the Cape of Good Hope from the lighthouse

Cape of Good Hope from the lighthouse

View of the Cape of Good Hope from the light house

Just to prove it’s us on top

Jackass penguins

Jackass penguins. Apparently they sit with their mouths open to cool themselves?

View from Chapman’s Peak Roda

Mouth feeding seals?

Great view and a man feeding a seal

Cape of Good Hope

View of the lighthouse from below. Yep, it’s a good climb!

Inukshuks at Cape of Good Hope

Ahoy!

BoKaap! Colourful Cape Town. Assalamualakum

Posted on February 28, 2016

Feb 26^th

At breakfast we looked up to find the mountain socked in with clouds. It’s like it disappeared.

We headed off on a walking tour of the BoKaap (meaning top of Cape) region. It was originally a place for Muslim slaves. We met a local man painting a bench who told us 20 years ago he would have just robbed as as times were so tough. Now things are much better and the neighbourhood is multicultural, though still predominantly Muslim.

“Assalamualakum” means “”Peace be upon you and is a traditional greeting in the Muslim community.

What would you think are the 3 most visited places in ALL of the African continent? We learned that it’s # The V&A waterfront. #2 The pyramids of Giza and # 3 Table Mountain. That’s kind of sad isn’t it? Of all the wonders in Africa, the thing people visit the most is a basically a shopping mall. Nuts. It’s pretty there for sure and we spent a few hours there but to be #1??? CRAZY! How about Kruger? The Serengetti? Victoria Falls? There are SO many amazing places in Africa!

After a stint of more planning for onward travel, we went back to the BoKaap district to try one of the restaurants our guide Rico suggested. Bobotie is a rice and minced meat dish which we found quite delicious. Rico was right 😀

Coloured houses of BoKaap. R

Local man taking time out from painting to tell us stories.

Table mountain wearing it’s table cloth behind the coloured houses of BoKaap

Just going for a walk

Mosque in BoKaap, Cape Town

Minaret through a fence

Robben Island, Cape Town!

Posted on February 28, 2016

Feb. 23 and 24^th

We’ve run into Wendy and Adeline a few times. Once they snuck up on us and scared the pants off us so we got them back when we spotted them on Signal hill. HA! They won though as the next time they spotted us in the Green market, they jumped us and got us good. Goof balls!

Robben (dutch for seal) Island is an interesting tour though they took us through so fast it was hard to digest it all. Nelson Mandela was jailed here for 18 of the 27 years he spent in prison. We learned about many other activists who protested Apartheid. Not all survived. They’re a testament to standing up for what is right.

We did a harbour tour and a sunset bus tour to Signal hill as well. Those were included in the hop on, hop off bus deal. That’s a bargain and anyone visiting Cape Town should do it.

Arranging future travel is a lot harder than we thought it would be. Despite it being shoulder season, many hostels are booked up and we have to work around the Baz bus schedule. Taking a tour is MUCH easier but this had it’s benefits. It’s a slower pace of travel and we’ve got time.

We even took some time to go for a pedicure! What a treat! Minkie got a month’s worth of nastiness off my feet, got rid of all the cracks and callouses, gave me a wonderful massage and made my toes look pretty…..all for $20. My feet were MUCH happier. 😀

Sunset over the Atlantic from Signal Hill

view from Signal Hill

Camps Bay beach

Victoria and Alfred waterfront from the harbour

Seals on wheels

Just chilling out on a ship

View of Table mountain and Devil’s peak from Robben Island

Robben Island

Nelson Mandela’s cell.

Different diets depending on if you’re just “coloured” or really black. Meant to cause friction between prisoners. It didn’t work.

A typical township just outside of Cape Town.

Wine, gardens, birds and MONKEYS! Cape Town adventures.

Posted on February 27, 2016

Feb 22 The African journey continues from this previous post: Cape Town! Home of one of the 7 wonders!

Since we ate way too much breakfast we had to do a lot of walking to work it off. Back on the Hop on, Hop off bus we went and to the Botanical gardens. After all the hype, it was a bit of a disappointment. It’s been very dry here and it’s mid summer so it’s likely between blooming periods or something. The landscape was gorgeous, just not many blooming flowers but the walk was nice and we did plenty of that.

We switched buses for the wine route and got off at South Africa’s oldest vineyard, Groot Constantia. They offered wine tasting with chocolate, for a fee of course so we figured that was a good lunch. Both were delicious as the chocolate is made to go with the wines we sampled. It was enough to make me tipsy (doesn’t take much!)

We hopped on again and hopped off at the World of Birds Wildlife Sanctuary, figuring on spending an hour or so there. Turned out it was an amazing place and we spent a good 3 hours there, including some great play time with squirrel monkeys. I took some cute videos with my phone but none of them recorded 😦

Back in the city, we wandered for a bit and again I was approached a few times by people who wanted me to buy them food. I bought a lady some corn flakes and milk yesterday and Sue figured she told all her friends. I’d love to help them all but ….. 😦

Later we bought ourselves some food for dinner and Sue wanted a bottle of wine so they “made” me taste some more. Life is rough.

Back at the hostel we made ourselves a yummy dinner and sat down to try to finalize future plans. We decided to stay in Cape Town an extra day as both Hermanus and Mossel Bay were really booked up.

Botanical gardens

Jackass penguin

More monkeys, more fun

What’s more fun than a monkey on your head?

Hello? WHO are you?

Secretary bird

Groot Constantia vineyard

Botanical gardens

Mountain view

View from the top of Table Mountain

Cable car going up Table Mountain

Cape Town! Home of one of the 7 wonders!

Posted on February 26, 2016

Feb 18

Kayaking must have been hard on me as I woke up with a sore back and creaking hips. It can’t have anything to do with age?!

After the usual pack up ritual we headed South. Up and down, twisting and turning through rocky barren mountains and a constant construction zone. At a stop in Springbok, Sue and I enjoyed a REAL coffee, picked up some snacks (including monkey gland flavoured chips..interesting!) and headed back to the truck. The others weren’t ready to go yet so I went walking around the parking lot. Munya laughed at me but then joined me.A good, brisk walk helped with the aches and pains.

We crossed the Cederberg mountains and the Olifant river and the desolate terrain became miles of vineyards. Our camp for the night was in one. Highlanders is set on the side of a hill and the campsite was luxurious, cushy, green grass.

Sparky, the owner, introduced us to 7 of the wines produced here. We poured our own “samples” so many of them were a little generous. I chatted with travellers from the Intrepid truck and learned about some more places I need to visit, especially Ethiopia. I see another trip coming together 🙂

Dinner was lamb chops on the braii, fried potatoes, salad and cooked vegetables. Considering I wasn’t hnngy I sure ate a lot.

Feb 19

We tore down our tent named Goldfish for the last time. We had a great time together but I won’t miss it much. A real bed will be MUCH appreciated!

Heading South toward Capetown, we passed miles of orange trees, fields of roibus tea and beautiful scenery. This big truck catapulting down the mountain road, brakes squealing, terrified me but everyone else seemed calm. I did a lot of imaginary brake pumping.

After checking in to the Ashanti hostel in Capetown we were picked up by Mark, who took us on a tour of the Township of Gugulethu where we visited a family. Things are very basic in Gugulethu. They seemed to have electricity but no running water. We left some clothes we didn’t want and Sue and I gave away our sleeping bags. It lightens our load and helps someone in need.

We visited a place where they sell meat and tried sheep’s head, a delicacy eaten at ceremonies and celebrations. We visited another hut where they shared some of the beer they had made. Later we stopped for lunch at a diner type place that cooked “braii” which is barbecue. Tasty stuff.

On the way back, we dropped off a package of our leftovers and I went through some of the alleys to find some kids to give school supplies too. Those who weren’t afraid of me were really friendly and happy to share their drawings. They loved having their photos taken and wanted me to show them. I took a little too long as the others ended up waiting for me. Oops.

Later a bunch of us took taxis to the water front and enjoyed a last meal together. I’m going to miss this bunch. They were fun!

Feb 20.

I didn’t have to set an alarm but was awake ridiculously early anyway so went for a leisurely shower at 6:30 am. Sue, Gemma and I made every effort to be quiet so the 2 other guys in the room could sleep. After breakfast we came back to find them finally awake. We ended up chatting when I told them I was impressed with their sleeping ability. They’d just done Norway and one guy had frost bite on his big toes. OW!

Sue and I donned backpacks, checked out and walked to The Backpack, supposedly a 10 minute walk. For us directionally challenged women, it became more like a half hour. THIS is why we can’t buy souvenirs yet. In spite of getting rid of stuff, they’re HEAVY to lug around.

We spent the next couple of hours trying to book things to do for the week but the websites weren’t behaving or accepting our cards. The lady at reception couldn’t give us the same prices so we decided to just try later. On the way to the waterfront we saw a travel agency and popped in, nicely 20 minutes before closing. Louise got it all arranged for us AND we got the online prices as she called and told them their site didn’t work. Awesome Louise!

We walked to the waterfront, found the Robben Island museum, booked that tour and just wandered, settled on Greek food for lunch and headed back. Since the hostel has a kitchen, we picked up some groceries and stored them in the fridge so we don’t have to eat out. LOVE that about hostels!

Feb 21

After a great breakfast put on by the BackPack hostel, we set out to find the hop on, hop off bus stop. It’s never as easy as they make it out to be. Twice someone offered to help us “authorize” our tickets. Sue was on the ball and spotted a scam so we didn’t.

We learned and saw a lot of Cape Town and noticed there were no clouds on Table Mountain so decided to go up the cable car. After an hour wait there were STILL no clouds so we got a beautiful view.

By the time we stopped for lunch it was 4 pm and we were starving so we got off at the Green Market area and happened on a Kurdish restaurant. You’d think we’d get Kurdish food then but nope. The special was a burger so I thought, why not? I thought of Wendy as I stuffed the bun full of deliciousness in my mouth 😀

Back at the hostel we spent the evening trying to figure out what to do with the rest of our journey. It’s just not working online so I guess we’ll get a phone.

Cable car going up Table Mountain

View from the top of Table Mountain

Mountain view

Little boys proud of their art work

Braii!

Sheep’s head anyone? It was pretty tasty.

Cutting up meat with an axe

Plucking chickens

Kitchen in a hut in the Township

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Where in the world is Jodi?

Adventure travel for the young at heart. I haven't been everywhere but it's on my list!

Author Archives: Jodi

Mdumbi. The Wild Coast!

Coffee Bay. What’s the hype all about?

Chintsa, under rated beautiful beaches!

Addo Elephant National Park. MUCH more than elephants!

Wild Spirits; a throwback to the 60’s? The Crags

Beautiful Knysna. A lagoon that’s not a lagoon

Mossel Bay, SHARKS and blue flag beaches

Cape Point, Good Hope and Penguins!! Cape Town adventures.

BoKaap! Colourful Cape Town. Assalamualakum

Robben Island, Cape Town!

Wine, gardens, birds and MONKEYS! Cape Town adventures.

Feb 22 The African journey continues from this previous post: Cape Town! Home of one of the 7 wonders!

Back in the city, we wandered for a bit and again I was approached a few times by people who wanted me to buy them food. I bought a lady some corn flakes and milk yesterday and Sue figured she told all her friends. I’d love to help them all but ….. 😦

Later we bought ourselves some food for dinner and Sue wanted a bottle of wine so they “made” me taste some more. Life is rough.

Back at the hostel we made ourselves a yummy dinner and sat down to try to finalize future plans. We decided to stay in Cape Town an extra day as both Hermanus and Mossel Bay were really booked up.

Cape Town! Home of one of the 7 wonders!

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Feb 22 The African journey continues from this previous post: Cape Town! Home of one of the 7 wonders!

Back in the city, we wandered for a bit and again I was approached a few times by people who wanted me to buy them food. I bought a lady some corn flakes and milk yesterday and Sue figured she told all her friends. I’d love to help them all but ….. 😦

Later we bought ourselves some food for dinner and Sue wanted a bottle of wine so they “made” me taste some more. Life is rough.

Back at the hostel we made ourselves a yummy dinner and sat down to try to finalize future plans. We decided to stay in Cape Town an extra day as both Hermanus and Mossel Bay were really booked up.

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