A beautiful poem to describe my son, written by a friend.
Living in God’s pocket by Jasper Hoogendam
Author Archives: Jodi
Turkmenistan Adventures: From Dashoguz to Ashgabat
After visiting Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Tajikistan and Uzbekistan with Lilia, of G Adventures, we said good bye to her and a few fellow travelers. The Uzbekistan post can be found here.
It’s titled Tashkent to Samarkand: A Journey Through Uzbekistan.
14 of us carried on with Aygul who will take us across the border and through Turkmenistan.
By 9:30 am we were at the border. This one was even more fun than the Tajikistan Uzbekistan border. First our passports were checked. Then we walked a few metres and had them stamped. They were checked again after we put our bags through an X-ray machine. Finally on the other side, the first of us through handed a Turkmenistan officer the list of Letters of Intent. The officer checked to make sure all our passports matched the names. Next we boarded a bus through “no man’s land” to the Turkmenistan side. There Aygul (our new guide) gathered our passports. We’d already given her the money for the visas ($100 USD for Canadians). While we went for covid tests ($10 USD), she started the process for the visas. That took her more than an hour. We watched her go from one line to another until she finally joined us and handed back the passports. We lined up with freshly stamped passports to have them stamped again. There we had to elbow our way to keep a place in line. Next the bags were x-rayed again and passports checked. Through the building once more and another passport check before we finally entered Turkmenistan. In total, a 3.5 hour process. There were 2 groups behind us. At least one of them was going to get stuck there while staff went on lunch break. It really pays to have a guide who has done it before to help expedite the process.
Since we were so delayed we switched the dinner and lunch plans. Lunch was at a cafe in Dashoguz. I use the term “cafe” as that’s what she called it. It was a big, open room and the menu was full meals. Again, lots of nutritious options!
Back on the bus, we drove 100 km to Old Urgench. It is a UNESCO world heritage site. It features 14th-century mausoleums, a minaret, and a portal that are pretty much original.
The next day in Dasaguz, Aygul showed us around the city. We noticed often people honking and wondered what that was about. Apparently they don’t see many tourists so honk in greeting and welcome. Sure enough, when I paid attention, people would be waving and smiling. Folks we passed on the street greeted us with interest, wondering where we were from. We felt a little like celebrities! HAHA!
Next we divided up into 4wd vehicles. Soon we discovered why the bus didn’t go into the desert. Many times we were riding “off road” as the desert paths were better than the road. Trucks take this route from Dasaguz to Ashgabat when it’s 50 degrees celcius. The pavement melts and tires leave grooves. Overnight it cools and those ruts stay. So, in many places the road is a rutted mess.
The 5 hour drive was interesting as well as very bouncy. The desert is beautiful in it’s own way. Camels are herded and transported by “cowboys” on motorcycles.
We arrived at the “Shining of Karakum”. It’s also known as the Darvaza Crater or the Gates of Hell. We were immediately enthralled. There are little fires all over the crater. The heat is intense! The fires have been reduced in the last few years as more gas is mined in the area. A couple years ago it must have been incredible!
Aygul convinced us to carry on and check into the yurt camp as we may have stayed there taking pictures all day.
After dinner the hedgehogs come out. They’re adorable little creatures! There were locusts here too though not as many as in the Uzbekistan desert. The hedge hogs were busy eating them.
Leaving that entertainment we walked back to the crater. It’s easy to spot as the fires light up the night sky. It was a beautiful evening.
The road to Ashgabat was not much better. More bouncing and off road craziness ensued. There were stops at other gas craters and a couple craters filled with water.
As we approached Ashgabat we were completely blown away. The city is amazing! The airport is shaped like a massive bird!
Ashgabat is immaculate. Everything is white and sparkly. There are trees everywhere and the trunks are painted white. Even the traffic lights are shiny. They appear to be made of stainless steel.
Checking into the hotel was interesting. They claim to have wifi and set up all our devices for us but it rarely worked. Social media is seriously restricted in Turkmenistan and it was not much different in Ashgabat.
The next day we toured the city and surrounds and learned a lot about Turkmenistan. In 1948 the city was decimated by an earthquake. Half the population died. The first president of Turkmenistan’s entire family died leaving him an orphan at 8 years old. The entire city has been rebuilt. Regular buildings are made of marble from Iran. Government and special buildings are constructed with Italian marble.
We drove to the ancient settlement of Nisa, a UNESCO World Heritage site. This settlement was once the capital of the Parthian Empire from the 3rd century BC to the 3rd century.
The rest of the day was spent visiting many sights including Monument of Independence and the National Museum of History and Ethnography. Next, visit the Arch of Neutrality and the Gulistan market and Ertugrul Gazi Mosque.
With four minarets and a central dome, this mosque honours the founder of the Ottoman Empire, Osman I.
After enjoying a nice dinner we said goodbye to the group. The next day we spent on our own, kind of at a loss. The city isn’t very walkable. All the buildings look the same and there are no street cafes. We ended up visiting the mall, walking to a park, getting a massage and spending some time in the pool.
Yes, they have a weird obsession with Snickers bars
Our ride to the airport showed up at 5 am. The airport was VERY quiet but the process was intense. Despite our bags being carry on sized according to Turkish airlines guidelines, they insisted we check them. Annoying but not much you can do.
Next stop: Istanbul. The beauty of using Aeroplan points to fly is a practically free stop over so we capitalized on that with a 5 day trip to Istanbul. It’s one of my favourite cities and I’m not a city fan. It’s been 10 years. We’ll see if I still love it.
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Tashkent to Samarkand: A Journey Through Uzbekistan
The last stop after leaving Tashkent. A market and the mosque in Khujand.
Check out the previous post for the description of border crossing adventures. Great fun. HAHA!
Silk Road Journey: Highlights of Tajikistan’s Natural Beauty
Tashkent didn’t start out great for us as both Anita and I are dealing with digestive distress. So. Just coffee for breakfast, which was sad as the breakfast buffet looked wonderful.
Lilia, our intrepid guide took us to a bank that would issue USD. We’re headed to Turkmenistan next. The visa fees need to be paid in cash plus foreign credit cards aren’t accepted at all there. Even ATMs only take local cards. None of us were aware of that before leaving home. It’s important information!
We decided to do the least strenuous activity we could think of and walked to the nearest subway station from the bank. The next few hours were spent getting on and off the trains, exploring some of the beautiful stations. The system was built after the massive earthquake of 1966 destroyed Tashkent. Since it was technically a military location (bomb shelter) photos weren’t allowed until recently.
After relaxing for a couple of hours and doing some sink laundry, we met Sarah and Jane and walked to Jumanji for dinner. It was delicious! Most of the food has been thus far. We’re getting lots of veggies too which I really like.
Train to Samarkand
Tuesday, June 17th
The 4 hour journey on the train was pleasant and passed through miles of agricultural land. There are concerns about running out of water. Lakes and rivers are drying up because of rerouting water for irrigation and cities. Years of cotton crops have done great damage to the soil
Once in Samarkand we saw so much water waste though. Giant hoses left on in parks to seriously over water trees and vegetation. Maybe it has to be done that way?
Samarkand is beautiful. 13th century buildings have been restored to their former glory. Every night there’s a light show depicting the history of Uzbekistan in Registan square.
We did a tour of the city with a highlight being Amir Temur’s mausoleum. He was very famous here, yet none of our group had ever heard of him. Stay tuned as we learned a LOT about him. A hero in Uzbekistan but not so much in Turkmenistan.
The next day we toured a few more sites and spent some time at the market. We had grandiose plans to visit the prophet Daniel’s tomb but the heat sucked all the energy out of us. Besides, there’s not much of Daniel there. Maybe an arm? So the afternoon was spent enjoying the hotel pool. A rarity in these parts.
June 19th, 2025
Nur Fortress
Up and out early we headed out into the country side. First stop was The Nur Fortress, also known as the Fortress of Alexander the Great. It is located near Nurata, Uzbekistan, and is believed to have been built by Alexander the Great in the 4th century BC. The fortress was intended to protect the region, particularly the city of Marakanda (modern-day Samarkand), from northern nomadic raiders, according to VisitSilkRoad. Nurfortress is situated on a hill, offering a strategic vantage point for defense.
Apparently Alexander didn’t build it. Someone else with an unpronounceable name did. There’s also a pool created by a meteor said to have healing power. 
It’s supposed to be in the shape of a hand. You need a very creative imagination to see it.
Next stop was Aydarkul lake. A swim in the balmy water was a welcome treat
Taking a bus down the dirt roads was interesting. Pretty sure you’d want a 4×4 at home to do it but our driver handled it just fine.
Yurt Camp in the Desert
The yurt camp Sputnik Navoi was a pleasant surprise. We practiced our archery skills (seriously lacking) and walked to the top of the dune to watch the sunset over the desert. Beautiful!
Dinner was wonderful. First we had an opportunity to try making dumplings. Again, my skills are lacking. They served an assortment of salads, soup, little dumplings and a potato, meat, carrot and cabbage dish. Watermelon and cookies were dessert.
I waddled outside to join the others around a bonfire. We listened to a local musician play the duma (traditional instrument) and sing. I didn’t understand a word but it sounded nice.
Despite the heat, I slept remarkably well. We were up early so went for a walk about. By 7:30 am it was already ridiculously hot.
Bukhara
After breakfast we packed up and headed out again. A few stops along the way were interesting. The ruins of the market in Navoiy and the water reservoir across the road tell a story about the history of the place.
Bukhara is a beautifully preserved, walled city and our hotel was right in the old city. It’s an historical building that was once a madrassa.
Although we’re “lucky” that it’s “only” 38 degrees, the heat had us melting. Lilia showed us around the town and we headed off to dinner.
The next morning we had an official walking tour of Bukhara. There’s so much history here and it’s so well preserved!
After that we wandered around inside and outside the city, moving slowly due to the heat. Many places close in the afternoon so there aren’t many people out and about. Back at the hotel we met with the others and our new tour leader. We will say goodbye to Lilia and a few of the group members. Aygur will guide us into Turkmenistan. It’s complicated so that took so much time we didn’t get to climb the wall as we’d hoped. So, Jane, Sarah, Anita and I found a place to eat dinner on a roof top with a view of and over the wall. Win/win.
We’d visited the fortress on our tour but didn’t go in. Our guide said it was best viewed at sunset. So, after dinner we headed there. She wasn’t wrong!
More of Bukhara….because it’s pretty special!
The next day we headed to Turkmenistan. Now THAT is an adventure!
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Silk Road Journey: Highlights of Tajikistan’s Natural Beauty
After visiting Kyrgystan and Kazakhstan, we landed in our 3rd “Stan” of this Silk Road trip.
Previous posts can be found here:
Exploring Central Asia: A Journey Through Kyrgyzstan
Adventuring Through Kazakhstan: A Silk Road Journey
June 12, 2025
Upon arrival in Dushanbe, capital of Tajikistan we were blasted with the heat.
A tour of the city was fascinating. So much money was spent on buildings, fountains and decorative structures. It’s absolutely stunning.
We learned a lot about the Tajik people. Unlike the Kazaks and Kyrgyz people the Tajiks were never nomads and are of Turkic descent. The USSR came up with the boundaries so not all Tajiks live in Tajikistan. There are a lot more in surrounding areas.
We visited the grand Mosque and were treated with a reading in song from Quran by one of the Mu’azzin who does the call to prayer.
Fann mountain getaway
Thursday, June 15 we headed for the Fann mountains. Up and up we climbed and the views along the way were spectacular. We stopped for a picnic lunch on Alexander the Great’s lake where we planned to hike to the Iskandarkul waterfall. Those plans were foiled by an impressive thunderstorm so we carried on.
Upon arrival in the village of Ghazza, we checked into the Community Guesthouse Begmurod. Rooms are large and shared by 3 or 4 people. They’re very nice and the showers are great. I slept so well the 2 nights we spent there. There’s no cell service or wifi so it was a great “detox”. After our hostess served us a tasty dinner, some of us gathered and played games that Karen had brought along. Great fun!
After breakfast on Friday we piled in the van and were dropped off to start our hike. 5 km uphill. Even in the mountains it’s warm. We were glistening till we arrived at one of the most remote villages in Tajikistan.
We were warmly welcomed by the people of Voru. The local blacksmith, who is also a farrier, explained his trade to us. He is the 4th generation in his family to continue this craft. His children will take over but they leave to make money elsewhere during the winter.
Later we were served tea and cookies, then headed back down the hill.
(I couldn’t narrow down photos any more so there are several. If you click and open them individually you can see the captions)
Ghazza
We had lunch in another camp area served by locals and we back to the guesthouse. Some of us went to visit a fish farm we could see from the guest house. Again, we were warmly welcomed and the owner proudly showed us what he was up to. He started the “farm” 5 years ago and this year finally hoped to break even. Maybe even make a profit. In the meantime he’s hired local women to clean the fish and a few men to help with other things.
Dinner that evening was at another guesthouse. I like how G adventures does that. Doing their best o help communities succeed organically.
Giant Lenin Statue
Friday. After packing up again we headed out of the mountains, of course, stopping for view points along the way.
One stop was in Istaravshan where the largest bust of Lenin still exists, overlooking the huge reservoir. Most statues of Lenin have been taken down. It’s a climb up 365 steps to get to the top.
We ended the day in Khujand where we visited the Historical museum of Sughd. I was really impressed with the mosaics there. They’re all made of scraps of marble and are gorgeous.
Into Uzbekistan
Before crossing the border we stopped at the central market. That’s a must see in any city. I love just wandering, seeing what goods are for sale and observing local people.
Crossing the border is an adventure. You need to be prepared. Wear a hat and sunscreen as we stood waiting in the sun to get an exit stamp. Passports were checked multiple times. Crossing “no man’s land” with our luggage was a treat when it’s so hot. You can pay a guy with a cart to take your luggage through for you but of course, I’m too cheap and proud to do that. Once on the Uzbekistan side we again waited quite a while to get an entry stamp. Locals were really pushy there and we had to use all our assertive abilities to keep our place in line. Finally through all that we had to put all our luggage through an X-ray machine and again have our passports checked to make sure we had all the appropriate stamps. What an ordeal!
2ish hours later we arrived at the Harris Hotel where check in was slow. Of course it is when you’re desperate for a shower.
Anita wasn’t feeling well so I headed off to find Uzbek soms and get the lay of the land. I joined the others for dinner and got to have pink soup. I haven’t had that since my trip to the Baltics. It was almost as good.
The next post is about Uzbekistan.
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Adventuring Through Kazakhstan: A Silk Road Journey
Anita and I are on the 5 Stans of the Silk Road tour with G Adventures. The first post can be found here: Exploring Central Asia: A Journey Through Kyrgyzstan
Now we’re heading into Kazakhstan. If the border crossing is any indication, this country is going to be fascinating!
Sunday, June 8
Drives thus far have been incredibly scenic and this one was no different. The border crossing to Kazakhstan was interesting. We took everything out of the van and the driver took the vehicle across separately. First stop was getting the departure stamp. Then I walked across no man’s land to Kazakhstan to get the entry stamp. Next to a building with an xray which all the bags had to go through. I was first so the young man had to turn the machine on. He seemed delighted to see me. There don’t appear to be many travelers going through this crossing.
We carried on to stop to view a beautiful gorge. People are learning to capitalize on tourists with settings for photo opportunities; 2 of which involved a golden eagle.
Our destination was the village of Saty in the Kolsay national forest. Lake Kaindy was formed after a landslide triggered by by an earthquake in 1911 forming a natural dam. It blocked the gorge and was filled by mountain river water. The trees have been submerged since and appear to be still growing under water.
We settled into our guesthouse then were picked up in 4×4’s. The drive into the park is an adventure. We got bounced around like crazy and even drove through a river. Upon arrival we hiked uphill for about 1.5 km in the pouring rain. The hike itself is pleasant. The stinky vans that take tourists up were obnoxious. The rest of the hike was really nice and the views gorgeous.
View from our guesthouse 
Traffic jam
Monday, June 9
We left Saty village early as usual and were on the road before 8 am. First stop was Charyn Canyon where we had a few hike options. Anita and I chose to hike the lower canyon. The formations are beautiful and remind me a lot of some of the parks in Nevada. It’s called the little sister of the US Grand Canyon. I didn’t see the similarity there at all. lol
Sharyn Canyon 
Charyn canyon 
Back on the road we stopped in a village to buy a picnic lunch to eat in the park. Anita and I opted for ice cream. Yum!
Just outside of Almaty our van broke down. It sounded like a transmission issue. Uh oh. So the other van came back for us and we all piled in. 16 people plus luggage was pretty tight but it wasn’t far.
We checked into the Otrar hotel. It’s a strange place. In order to use wifi, a staff member needed to do it for us for EACH device. Yes, time consuming. Some tried to get laundry done. You can’t bring it to the desk. The supervisor comes to your room and counts items then reports to front staff…..twas way too confusing so we washed our clothes in the tub and hung them all over the room.
After Liliia showed us the lay of the land, Anita and I set off on our own to find dinner. We arrived at the Indian restaurant I’d chosen to find out they were closed for cleaning. Weird. So we carried on and found Ocean Basket. It was nice. We’re getting plenty of local food on this trip and wanted something different.
Tuesday was a slower paced day. It started with a city tour. We saw the Independence Monument, Ascension Orthodox Cathedral, Panfilov’s park (Panfilov’s guardsmen) and the Glory memorial among other things. Later Anita and I visited the Musical instrument museum. It was pretty interesting!
Wednesday;
A relaxing morning as the whole day was dedicated to a 1.5 hour flight to Dushanbe. Oh well. It’s much more pleasant than the alternative, a ridiculously long train ride.
On to the next post. Tajikistan!
Silk Road Journey: Highlights of Tajikistan’s Natural Beauty
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Exploring Central Asia: A Journey Through Kyrgyzstan
June, 2025
G Adventures had a great sale last year. Anita and I jumped at the chance to book a tour to Central Asia. It’s a region I know NOTHING about so am excited to visit and get to know their culture. Booking that far in advance also made getting a flight with Aeroplan points realistic. It sure helps keep costs down!
Bishkek
We arrived in Bishkek after more than 26 hours of travel involving 3 flights. I do enjoy Turkish Air as the food is actually really good!
I arranged an airport pickup with G, knowing we’d be exhausted. It’s really nice to be greeted with a sign with your name on it.
First impressions of Bishkek were unimpressive. The roads are great but the city seemed dull, poor and kind of run down.
We checked into the Golden Hotel, cleaned up and set off to explore. A couple hours of wandering showed a much better view of the city. It’s full of beautiful, treed parks with lots of roses, fountains and flower beds. We happened upon the changing of the guard ceremony at Ala-Too Square and Victory Square. Finally, exhaustion took over. We spent the rest of the day planning what to do over the next few days and drinking tea. We tried hard NOT to fall asleep. The best thing for jet lag is to get into the rhythm of the new time zone as quickly as possible. By 8 pm we were sound asleep
Day 2.
Our hotel provided an amazing breakfast that kept us going all day.
The walking tour we booked with Alex was pricey. However, it was well worth it. We saw and learned many things we wouldn’t have on our own. He showed us buildings and statues and explained the history, how the Kyrgyz changed their nomadic behaviour along with some great stories. Murals and wall art meant nothing without his explanations. Alex walks fast so the active pace kept us happy too. Find him here:
https://www.viator.com/tours/Bishkek/From-Kyrgyz-History-to-Contemporary-Street-ART-of-Bishkek-City/d50202-418483P8
We’ve only been here 2 days but have been greeted warmly by several locals. No, we don’t blend in. (hehe) One woman thanked us for coming. Tourism is pretty new to Kyrgyzstan and locals see the benefits.
Ala Archa National Park
Day 3; We hired a driver to take us to Ala Archa National Park. He spoke no English and we no Russian or Kyrgyz so sign language sufficed. Google translate wasn’t much help. He dropped us off at the gate and there’s a shuttle that takes you further into the park. This must be fairly new as none of my research showed this. So, if I were to do it again I’d figure out public transit. It’s much cheaper.
Ala Archa is beautiful. The trails are not nearly as well marked as they say unless perhaps you can read Russian? They use the Cyrillic alphabet too so it’s hard to even guess. We managed to walk about 10 km and see a nice chunk of it anyway.
Day 4. We checked out of the Golden and into the Grand Hotel, the starting location for our G Adventures tour. We spent a few hours wandering around the Osh market. It’s HUGE! We were told not to take pictures so there’s no evidence. It’s a VERY busy market where you can buy anything.
Day 5; Our group of 16 people led by Lilia set off early. After a walking tour of the city seeing the few sites we missed on our own, plus learning more about sites we’d seen, we headed for Burana tower. The minaret is all that’s remaining of a once impressive town. The structure was built with baked bricks. Apparently the other structures weren’t and they “melted”.
Chon Kemin
Our journey continued into the mountains. The first stop was lunch in a village with a Dungan family. She prepared an amazing spread and shared a bit about her family’s customs. Many Dungan Chinese immigrated to Kyrgyzstan to escape persecution.
Being curious tourists, we spent a great deal of time marveling over sheep with really big butts. Apparently it’s a fat lump and quite the delicacy. One shepherd was on a donkey, herding his sheep and playing on his cell phone. He looked at us, probably thinking “have these weirdos never seen sheep before?”
After a few scenery photo stops, we arrived at our destination; the Jekshen guesthouse in Chon Kemin
Fox on the run 
Train tunnel 
Grave marker. The stones were moved here to be part of a museum. There are no graves here. 
Roadside view 
Check out that butt 
A feast of delicious and nutritious food prepared by a Dungan family 
Burana tower is all that’s left of a 9th century village 
Sheep visiting a coffee shop 
.Thursday, June 5
Issyk Kul
We had an amazing breakfast. Then, we walked down the road and up into the hills for a lovely view of the area. Sometimes a horse would block the path. I tried staring them down but they’re bigger than me so I walked around.
The pass into Song Kul was still closed so our yurt stay was changed to Issyk Kul (Lake). After checking we put on swim suits and walked to the lake. Some of us braved the cold, refreshing water and were invigorated.
Dinner at the yurt camp was again wholesome and delicious with plenty of veggies. We’re not going hungry at ALL this trip!
Yurts are heated with wood stoves when it’s cold but not this time of year. Though it got down to 8-10 degrees, we were snug in the cozy beds covered with very heavy quilts. Thankfully the dogs stopped barking eventually and we all slept well.
Friday; We piled in the vans and drove to a hike nearby. I got maybe a third of the way up and turned around. I could feel the altitude headache starting already so decided to walk along the based. That was lovely too. The others enjoyed a wonderful panoramic view.
Lunch was back at the yurt camp before setting off again.
Fairytale canyon (Skazka canyon) is a MUST see if you’re in the area. The colourful rock formations are gorgeous and definitely unique.
Tamga
We carried on to spend tonight at a Guest house in Tamga. The house has a lovely garden and dinner was served in a glassed in room.
Saturday. Our first stop was at the Ak-Orgo workshop centre where. The man who started it has passed but his son and daughter in law have taken over. They’re doing a great job of making sure the old skills are improved upon and passed on. They showed us how they use wool to make various crafts out of felt. Yurt building was next. The structure is made of willow and the covering is felt. One piece they put on was made in 1967!
Next stop was broken heart rock. There’s a sad legend that goes along with that.
Next we drove to Jetty Oguz then on a dirt road to find a picnic spot. We wondered if this spot was worth the drive as it was pretty rough. You can see by the pictures it was worth it. The grassy slopes were covered in wild flowers. Cows grazed randomly and many families dotted the roads, enjoying a peaceful Saturday by the river.
Back to the village we climbed the hill for a better view of the 7 bulls. On top was a nice cafe with good coffee and ice cream. Lots of locals were enjoying it. One asked if she could take a picture with me. Ok, kind of weird but if it makes you happy. lol
Karakul
Back on the road we carried on to Karakul where we visited the Holy Trinity Russian Orthodox Church. It’s unique in that it’s built of walnut wood.
The mosque was strange. It looked more like a Buddhist temple and the minaret looked like shack
After settling into our hotel we went to a Weiger restaurant for dinner. The Weiger Chinese were another group who settled in Kyrgyzstan after escaping Chinese persecution. We were pretty much finished when they lit up a disco ball and started loud music. People got up to dance. So. Some of us joined them. A young girl asked where we were from and told us it was her grandmother’s 76th birthday. The birthday girl danced in the middle and we surrounded her, joining the family. Great fun!
Next we crossed the border into Kazakhstan. That is an adventure described in the next post.
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New Year’s Adventure in Bonaire: Snorkeling and Sightseeing
2025! Happy New Year!
Westjet now offers a direct flight from Toronto!! A seat sale made it even more affordable so Laura and I jumped on it. We arrived Dec 31, 2024. Our checked bags took a good 1/2 hour which reinforced to me why I usually just use carry on. Recent rain meant lots of massive puddles. No obvious transportation choices so we decided to walk as it’s only 2 km. However there are no sidewalks and water everywhere. Plus it’s the busiest road on Bonaire. A nice couple in a pickup asked if we wanted a ride. He threw our heavy bags in the back and we hopped in. Great choice as our road was flooded
Eventually we got into our room at The lodge and walked to town for food. A nice guy pointed out a way we wouldn’t have to walk down the flooded street
Fireworks were going off in random places. At first we jumped every time. They sound like gun shots!
We were the last guests at the Jasmine before they closed for the night of festivities. There was live music in Kralendijk. Streets were closed to cars. People everywhere yet it was calm. Just fireworks! Everywhere! kids were lighting bottle bombs with cigarettes. It was fascinating to watch.
At midnight it came to a peak of exploding fireworks in all directions. By 1 am all was peace and quiet
Klein Bonaire
We took the Caribe water taxi to Klein Bonaire and spent the day snorkeling, hiking and swimming. The beach is beautiful but the snorkeling was disappointing. The coral is mostly dead and there aren’t a lot of fish.
We did the Duchi trail which follows the shore line. It’s a challenging in some places if you’re not wearing good shoes as you’re walking on coral which can be a real ankle twister
Back in Kralendijk we walked back to our room, cleaned up and went looking for dinner. I’d brought cheese and crackers from home just in case as it was New Year’s Day. But we were HUNGRY! Luckily we found Bon Wokki open. Perfect! A bowl of noodles for me, rice for Laura.
Washington Slagbaai National Park and Night Snorkeling
We packed a lot into today. At 7.45 am Eddie with adventure makers Bonaire picked us up in a 4×4 and drove us through Washington Slagbaai national park park. We learned a lot about Bonaire and I highly recommend the tour. A full day in the park with several stops including a fantastic snorkel stop. I saw 2 turtles! The included lunch was delicious too
He dropped us off and we relaxed for a couple hours. A feast of nut bars, cheese and crackers was dinner before Greetje Kooistra picked us up for night snorkeling. Both Laura and I were pretty nervous. I love the sea but it’s scary in the dark! Greetje provided strap on flashlights which we covered with our fingers so as not to startle nocturnal creatures. We saw many creatures including a large octopus. Afterwards Greetje provided snacks and dropped us off at The Lodge
Find info on Greetje here: https://www.aquacoaching.nl/about-me
Jibe City, Salt Flats and old Slave Houses
Our host had reserved a car for us First Bonaire’ car rental picked us up promptly at 9. After asking, we were told we could go anywhere on the island EXCEPT the national park. After our tour the previous day, we understood why! We sorted out the details and Laura drove the little Suzuki on the day’s adventure. We were surprised to discover a manual transmission. Good thing Laura knows how to drive one!
As we headed south it started to pour. We stopped a couple of times and got soaked. Then we decided to drive the whole boulevard. We planned to come back for sightseeing and snorkeling. The road narrows to one lane. The shoulders drop off making it dangerous for our little car to leave the road in places. Apparently the unwritten rule is that the biggest vehicle gets out of the way. Most of the time that happens
By the time we got to Jibe city the sun had come out. Watching the various wind powered craft in the water was fascinating
The donkey sanctuary is currently home to over 800 donkeys. Bonaire has an interesting history of dealing with goats and donkeys. Google it if interested
We turned around for a different perspective of the same road. Twas a good decision as there were many things we’d missed
Dinner was tacos at the Sugar Thief. The owner and another customer engaged in conversation and we learned a lot about local life. Perfect combo of good food, a yummy margarita and good conversation
Saturday Jan 4
1000 Steps, Karpata and Rincon
Today we explored the north end of the island. Starting with a visit to some caves then snorkeling at 1000 steps. A woman there suggested Karpata so we snorkeled there as well. Every location is different
We carried on and stopped at all the viewpoints. Flamingos are bright pink in Bonaire and they’re everywhere.
Since we were in Rincon anyway we stopped at the Cadushy distillery. They offered samples of the cactus liqueurs and a tour. Tasty and very potent!
We carried on, stopping everywhere that looked interesting The Northern coastline is rugged, intense and beautiful!
Mangrove Sanctuary
One day we booked a kayak and snorkeling tour of the mangroves. Getting there is an adventure. Apparently the road is graded once a year, just before Easter. The little Subaru was fine. Laura was a little frazzled!
https://www.mangrovecenter.com/
Kralendijk
Kralendijk is the capitol and has a lot to offer tourists. There’s lots of history and you can do your own walking tour following an online map. Most days there’s a massive cruise ship in the harbour but when they leave it’s much more pleasant.
We enjoyed many good meals on Bonaire. One of our favourites was at the Surinam restaurant right at the Lodge. Another was the food truck on Te Amo beach. We brought chairs and enjoyed the sunset with a burger.
Snorkeling Everywhere
Snorkeling was my main reason for coming to Bonaire. I was disappointed by the recent die off of the coral. However, we spent lots of time in the water enjoying the sea life. Conditions weren’t great as it was windy the whole time we were there. However, the water clarity was still pretty good. We still saw lots of turtles and even an octopus.
Summary and Tips
Should you choose to visit Bonaire, bring your snorkel gear and good water shoes. Those that fit in your fins are best as getting in and out of the water is the hardest part.
It’s an expensive destination as it’s an island where pretty much everything is imported. The currency is USD which is hard on us Canadians. Reasonable accommodation CAN be found. You don’t have to stay in a resort. We stayed at the Lodge and our room had a kitchenette. Preparing our own breakfast and lunch helped keep costs down.
There are many public places to snorkel and lots are within walking distance of Kralendijk.
ENJOY!
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Turku Adventures: From Castles to Beaches and SAUNAS
My northern European adventure continues through Finland as I took the train from Tampere. The previous post can be found here: Exploring Tampere: From Saunas to Scenic Hikes
Prior to that the post on Helsinki: Exploring Helsinki: A Journey through Finland’s Vibrant Capital
I arrived early so dropped off my bag at the Truure bed and breakfast. It turned out to be an excellent choice as the location is perfect. It’s comfortable, friendly, clean and breakfast is good.
I started walking along the Aura river and ended up at Turku castle. That is VERY much worth a visit. I spent a good 3 hours there as there’s lots to see and it’s interesting.
It was hot and I was tired so I took the bus back. Public buses are easy and Google maps is pretty accurate. You can just tap your credit card. As of September, 2024 it’s only a euro per ride.
Turku has a lot of choice for foodies. I ended up at an Indian restaurant and thoroughly enjoyed it.
Turku Castle
It was ridiculously hot for Finland. I started the next morning off with a plan but I missed the bus by 2 minutes. The next was another hour. So new plan. Bus to Naantali. Then bus to Raisio where I found a lovely park to walk through. Alppiruusupuisto Rhododendron Park must be absolutely gorgeous when the flowers are in bloom! Then still had lots of time so bus to Ruissalo, an island and park where I planned to hike. But I was hot. So I did the Finnish thing and scrapped that plan for the beach where I swam in the freezing Baltic archipelago. I’d brought my book along and spent some time just enjoying the unseasonably warm, beach worthy weather.
Naantali
Raisio. Alppiruusupuisto Rhododendron Park
I really wanted to see more of Ruissalo so was on the bus at 8.30 am. I had planned on just doing one loop of the nature trail. However, I got a little carried away because the trail is gorgeous. There’s lots of variety in vegetation, terrain and views. I stopped and had a snack at the point, my only company a swan and a view of the sea.
I ended my walk at the botanical gardens. It was nice, though the gardens were past their prime in September. Next, I caught the bus to the beach. I had already hiked 12 km, and walking another 5-6 km on the road didn’t appeal.
Ruissalo
Today I learned the building on the beach houses a sauna. One for sisters and one for brothers. There’s a change room, lockers (1€) and showers and it’s free! It’s plenty hot at over 110°c and I was sweating no time. Most wore swim suits but one friendly naked lady asked me if I was a tourist. When I told her I’m Canadian she got all excited and told me all kinds if stories. In Finnish. I just smiled, laughed and appeared sad when it seemed appropriate.
After a bus ride back, I went to the Kmarket for the buffet salad. Dinner for less than 10 euro is a steal in Finland. Back in my comfy bed at the B&B I slept like a rock.
Saturday I checked out and took the bus to the ferry terminal where had my bag stored. 10€ seems excessive but I had no choice as I didn’t want to carry it around all day.
The next few hours I spent following a Nomadi map that identified many different sculptures in Turku. I ended up in the market square where I sat with coffee and churros for a while. I ended up chatting with two men. One a Fin and the other American. It was nice till USA dude brought up Trump. Ugh. The Finnish guy looked apologetic when I said “ok, time for me to go”. 😆 One can never escape US politics!
I wandered some more. At one point I grabbed a sandwich and ate it by the river then walked back to the ferry. I’d booked the trip to Stockholm well in advance. That was 56€ well spent. I had a nice room will my own bath and the ship (Viking grace) is luxurious. I slept like a baby and woke to the breakfast announcement. I skipped that but headed for deck 12 to enjoy the view as the ship eased into Stockholm harbour.
Stay tuned.
The next post is about Stockholm. That’s another gorgeous city!
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Exploring Tampere: From Saunas to Scenic Hikes
September 2024
This is one of a series of posts about my trip to the Baltic countries and Scandinavia. The last post can be found here: Exploring Helsinki: A Journey through Finland’s Vibrant Capital
I took the train from Helsinki. Finland’s transportation services are really good and pretty reasonable. Trains are cheaper the further in advance you book. So as soon as you settle on an itinerary, book your transit.
Tampere; Sauna capitol of Finland
I Checked into Dream hostel and left my bag as I was too early for my room. When I asked about an authentic sauna, she suggested Rauhaniemi Folk Spa, just a 1/2 hour walk. I asked about protocol and was given good directions. I should have brought sandals as my tender tootsies found walking outside on the gravel and pavement difficult. Also bring more water! Saunas are hot work and dehydrating.
The sauna starts at 100°C. The temperature increases during the day as more people put water on the stones. I lasted 10-15 minutes before escaping to jump in the lake which was a balmy 16°C. Fins will cut a hole in the ice and go in winter. This was summer sauna for them! There are warning signs not to swim alone in winter. Most of the folks there were socializing. They’d spend some time sweating together, then all go jump in the lake, swim around for a bit then go back and sweat. Some just conversed outside between sweats. Others prepared barbecued hot dogs on a grill and picnicked.
Rauhaniemi Folk Spa 
Rauhaniemi Folk Spa 
Beach beside the spa
After a couple hours of steaming myself then freezing, I took the scenic route back. I settled into my dorm and went out to get a salad at the Kmarket. They’re small grocery / convenience stores and all have some sort of salad bar plus lots of single meal options. Restaurants in Finland are very expensive. The salad bars provide a great option. You fill up a container with greens, veggies, pickles, cheeses, some meat choices, dressing, etc. Then you weigh it and a price tag comes out. Mine were usually 7-9 Euro. Not bad for a delicious, nutritious meal! I took it back to the hostel and ate in the kitchen where I usually get a cup of tea or water.
I had a leisurely start the next day
I asked a woman who lives here for a nice place to hike. She told me about a national park, not far. She looked up bus info for me. 1.25 hours then a 2 km walk. 🤔 I asked about Pyynikki as I could see it on the map. I only had one full day here and didn’t want to spend it on buses
Oh! Yes that is also nice. And you can walk from here! 😆 Funny as when we live in a place we forget about the beauty that is close
I started by following an all trails map but quickly went off track as there are many side trails. I checked Nomadi at the other side. It is another trail map app that’s better for city walks. I found a route through a residential area with old houses. That’s how I found Tahmela Huvila cafe. I certainly wouldn’t have found it otherwise! Delicious home made soup with bread that’s still warm and tasty pastries
Menu 
Tahmela Huvila cafe 
Pastry with a view 
Of course they have a sauna 
Home made soup and bread 
Tahmela Huvila cafe
I walked back through Pyynikki and found the tower which, of course, I climbed. After that I treated myself to one of their famous donuts. It was delicious but I did feel like I’d eaten my way through Tampere. No dinner for me.
The tower I climbed 
The infamous donuts 
View from the tower 
Pyynikki has enough trails to keep you busy all day! 
View from the trail 
Pyynikki 
View from a trail in Pyynikki 
Pyynikki
The next day I boarded a train bound for Turku, Finland. That post is coming!
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Exploring Helsinki: A Traveler’s Guide to Must-See Sights
This trip started in Vilnius, Lithuania. There I joined a G Adventures tour of the Baltic countries that ended in Helsinki.
Previous posts are here: Lithuania
Latvia
Estonia
Helsinki
https://www.googletagmanager.com/gtag/js?id=G-GYEFRT079J
After arriving by ferry from Tallinn, we checked into the Arthur hotel. Next we did a short walking tour with our CEO to get our bearings. That evening we enjoyed a final dinner with our group. The next morning many were leaving. Some went on to further travels and some went home.
Reindeer meat 
Helsinki Library 
Harbour area with pools and saunas
Aug 30. Linda had one day in Helsinki so together we packed as much into it as we could. We were on the first ferry to Suomenlinna before 9 am. On the ferry we passed many private homes and cottages and most of them have a sauna. When they say it’s the land of saunas, they’re not kidding.
Suomenlinna. Inside the walls 
Suomenlinna fortress 
Sailboat on the horizon
Linda and wandered Helsinki and saw the church in the rock. It’s unique in that it’s built INTO the rock. Kallio church was next. Both we viewed from the outside as all involve an entrance fee . We walked by Olympic stadium and the Sibelius Monument plus the markets.
Back at the waterfront there is a sports complex with….yes, a sauna. We enjoyed a dinner of street food. Salmon soup and the Finnish fish muikku. This crunchy treat of pan-fried Finnish vendace, is a traditional snack. The tiny little fish are lightly breaded, fried until crisp, and eaten whole with a dipping sauce and they’re delicious! Read more about that here:
Read More: https://www.thedailymeal.com/food-day-pan-fried-muikku-helsinki/
Sibilius Mondument 
Orthodox church 
Lutheran Church 
Siblius monument 
Kallio church 
2 Canadians and the Canadian embassy 
We couldn’t resist one more cruise on the archipelago. We chose Royal lines although there are a few to choose from with different routes and options. This one was 2.5 hours and has a buffet dinner. We didn’t eat but enjoyed cocktails instead.
There’s a concert on the waterfront most days in summer. We arrived back at the harbour in time to enjoy some of it.
Afterwards we walked to the bar area under the Orthodox Church. Great place to sit and visit.
I said goodbye to the group and changed to the Diana hostel. Hotels when you’re alone are expensive. When traveling long term I try to keep costs down by staying in hostels. In this one I shared a room with 2 other women. The bathrooms are shared with other rooms. Diana hostel has a nice kitchen area where you can make a meal, snack or beverage and socialize. Today was a 31,000 step day. I crashed.
View from the Orthodox church 
One of many saunas 
Cafe, pools, saunas on the harbour
Seurasaari Open-Air Museum
I “met” Niina in a facebook group that brings women together from all over the world. Host a Sister 50 plus is a fantastic tool for connecting people! Niina met me in front of my hostel and took me on the bus to Seurassari Open air museum. Both of us love to hike and Niina in preparing to walk the Camino so we planned a nice walk. Seurassari did NOT disappoint! It’s a beautiful walk even if you don’t go into any of the buildings. From there we walked along the river, through a cemetery, then had coffee and a Finnish treat at Cafe Regatta. It’s a unique place with the MOST interesting bathroom.
Limosin with tea pots 
Cafe Regatta bathroom 
Cafe Regatta 
VERY friendly squirrels 
Remnants of the cold war 
Porvoo
Google maps got me to the bus station but I couldn’t find my bus. Finally asked a random woman who not only took me there but gave me tips on what to see! It was a rainy day but I had an umbrella and a raincoat so managed to stay dry. Porvoo known for its well-preserved 18th- and 19th-century buildings, and the 15th-century Porvoo Cathedral. The Old Town and the Porvoonjoki River Valley are perfect places to enjoy a nice walk, including a gorgeous cemetery. There was a festival happening too and I spent some time there having a snack and people watching. There’s also a castle hill. Apparently there was a castle there once upon a time. There’s a lot of that in the North. Castles aren’t even ruins. They’re just no longer there.
Chapel in the cemetery 
Näsinmäki Cemetery. 
There’s no bad weather when you’ve got the right gear 
Next stop, Tampere. More saunas! This time I try a couple.
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A Memorable Journey in Estonia’s Beautiful Saaremaa and Tallinn
August, 2024
I’m on a trip with G Adventures exploring the Baltic countries. We started in Lithuania. That post is here, 5 Weeks in Northern Europe: A Journey Through Lithuania Latvia & Estonia
then on to Latvia. That post is here. Traveling Through Northern Europe: Latvia Highlights and now we’re on to Estonia.
Estonia
The Bus took us to the ferry. 27 minutes to Muhu island then on to Saaremaa, Estonia’s largest island. Our destination was the lovely farm accommodation of Jurna Recreation Farm, just outside the biggest town on the island, Kuresaare.
Our room at Jurna Recreation farm 
Behind is the former border control. Now it’s a convenience store. 
Dry stone wall on the road to Jurna
Saaremaa Island
After a fantastic breakfast spread, we took a day trip to a soap maker. She explained her process and how she ended up in Saaremaa. Next was a Kaali crater, a lake created by a meteorite over 7,000 years ago. Kaali Lake is considered sacred and there are lots of stories and legends about it. Then on to a medieval church and The Panga cliffs. Saaremaa’s location between Germany and Russia made it a battleground. It has been occupied by Crusaders, Swedes and Polish-Lithuanians besides the multiple incursions of Germans and Russians. The 20th century wasn’t any easier. The Baltic countries never celebrated the end of WW2. They went right into Russian occupation, which wasn’t much better than war.
Soap maker 
Medieval church 
Panga Cliffs 
Kaali Crater
Dinner at Jurna was a traditional Estonian meal. Delicious and filling.
The next day 3 of us rented a bike and spent the day cycling around the area.. Our first stop was Kuresaare castle. Next we rode the bike path, down towards the sea to a bird watching tower. We kept going despite my concern that the way back would be long. I’m not used to that much cycling. We rode through Navca and on to a beach to put our feet in the Baltic sea.
The ride back to Jurna wasn’t as bad as I thought though I was VERY happy to see our destination! About 30 km. We earned another delicious meal prepared by our hosts.
Kurasaare Castle 
The moat of Kurasaare castle 
Fixer upper seen on the bike ride 
Another view of Kurasaare Castle 
Baltic Sea 
Medieval staircase
Tallinn
Next morning back on the bus, ferry and into Tallinn. Our hotel was on the edge of the old city so everything was easily walkable. After 3 nights of traditional food, though hearty and delicious, we opted for Mexican. Fajitas hit the spot
The first place we visited was the palace. Kadriorg Palace is an 18th-century Baroque palace Both the Estonian and the German name for the palace means “Catherine’s valley”. It was built in 1718–1725 and now houses a museum of various forms of art. The palace is beautiful but the gardens were a highlight for me. We wandered back towards town and took a streetcar to Balti Jaam market then back to Old town.
Kadriorg Palace 
Kadriorg Palace 
Market 
Kadriorg Palace 
Kadriorg Palace 
Kadriorg Palace 
Over the next couple days I think I walked every street in Old Tallinn. It’s not that big but it’s beautiful and there’s a lot to see. The Russian embassy had a police guard watching 24 hours a day. Across the street is a store selling Ukranian products plus supplying information about the atrocities committed in the war. There were Ukranian flags everywhere in all three Baltic countries.
Curved Streets 
A Canadian in front of the Canadian embassy 
Russian Embassy 
Russian Embassy 
City Square 
A highlight was walking atop the walls that surround the city. Climbing the towers is fun and the exhibits are great. The views are magnificent! You can go under it as well and the museum is really interesting.
View from the wall 
Underground 
The next day we boarded the ferry bound for Helsinki. Finland is country number 80 for me!! Wow!
Co-Pilot?
Copilot?
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Traveling Through Northern Europe: Latvia Highlights
My journey into Northern Europe continues from Lithuania into Latvia with G Adventures. The previous post can be found here. 5 Weeks in Northern Europe: A Journey Through Latvia & Estonia
Journey to Riga
The bus ride from Klaipeda was pleasant as the roads here are excellent. We could have been driving the 401 (Ontario highway) as the views were similar. Trees, lakes and farmland line the highway but not a hill in sight which is why the hill we saw stood out.
We stopped along the way at the hill of crosses. It’s an fascinating place full of crosses that really shows Lithuanians determination to maintain their own faith and keep religious freedom. In fact, it was levelled by the Russians a few times but the locals just rebuilt it. Eventually the Russians gave up.
Read more about the history, legends and miracles that happened in this location here: https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20171026-lithuanias-miraculous-hill-of-100000-crosses
Thursday, Aug 23 was the 35th anniversary of the Baltic way. 2 million people joined hands across Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia to protest the occupation of Soviet Russia. What an incredible organizational feat and how brave of those who participated which totalled about a third of the entire population! Remember, they were occupied by the Russians at that time and they were NOT kind, nor did they tolerate any kind of insurrection.
In a total of 2 full days in Riga I learned a lot doing a free walking tour, visiting the central market, the art nouveau district, former KGB prison, outdoor museum and the occupation museum
Freedom monument 
There’s a lot of history here and the Latvian people have been through much. Though many people speak Russian, Latvia has decided to phase it out as a language of instruction. By 2030 it will no longer be offered in schools
A tour through a KGB Prison museum
Below are pictures of the KGB museum. Our guide “questioned” Traci who succumbed to torture and was sentenced to Siberia. We made light of it but sometimes humour is a way to mitigate horrible circumstances. I can’t imagine what the people had to deal with. Being sentenced to Siberia was no laughing matter as entire families never returned.
KGB prison 
Execution chamber 
Later a group of us took the local bus to the outdoor museum just outside Riga. It was drizzly so the park was practically empty. It was a really nice walk and some of the buildings were interesting.
That evening we sampled the local liquor, Black Balsam along with some yummy chocolates at a medieval bar. Black balsam comes in different flavours and is considered the Latvian national drink. Also. I had more pink soup. That stuff is addictive.
Next stop, Saaremaa, Estonia’s largest island
Where in the world is Jodi? 