Buen Camino, Sarria to Portomarin

Previous post: Sarria, our Camino begins

That bed was delightful and a good night’s sleep was had by all. We woke up refreshed and ready to hit the trail. After a hearty breakfast served by our gracious hostess, we dropped off our suitcase, had our “Credencial del Peregrino” stamped and headed out just after 8:30 am.IMG_7961_pe

Pretty little mushroom

Pretty little mushroom

Walking through one of the many forests on the camino

Walking through one of the many forests on the camino

The weather was perfect. The rain stayed away and the temperature stayed in the mid teens. We passed through forests, farms, small villages, went up and down hills, across bridges along roads, dirt paths and cobblestone and saw some spectacular views. Everyone we met was friendly. Some were walking briskly, like they needed to conquer the trail, others were like us, taking their time, chatting and taking lots of photos.  Pilgrims come from all over the world to walk the Camino. Some had already walked more than 600 km.  One young man was limping so I asked if he hurt his foot. “Yes, it’s swollen” but he shrugged, smiled and kept walking. The locals mostly nodded as we passed and wished us a “buen camino” (literally a good walk but has more meaning)

100 km left to Santiago!

100 km left to Santiago!

Sometimes we walked alone

Sometimes we walked alone

Pretty little flower along the path

Pretty little flower along the path

What is that plant?

What is that plant?

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We crossed the huge bridge and entered Portomarin around 3:30 pm having accomplished the 24 kilometres we’d set out to do this morning. After settling into our hotel and a brief rest we set out to find something to eat. The pretty village distracted us with views along the river and beautiful old churches. Our first choice of restaurant was closed so we opted for second choice which turned out great. The O Miriador didn’t disappoint. The view was spectacular and the food hearty and filling which at this point was what we needed as we were STARVING. We all chose a meal of the day and were served appetizers of bread, pasta, two kinds of hearty soup then our main meal of veal for Sue and hake for Anita and I. A glass of wine ended up being a carafe that served each of us at least two glasses. Then we got dessert even, all for 10 Eu each!

All thoughts of going out for tapas and drinks were gone and by 7 pm it was dark anyway so we went back to our room to read and edit pictures. Walking is tiring work 🙂 Today’s trek was supposed to be 22 km but we likely did more like 25 or so as we took a couple of detours, on purpose of course 😉

Dalmatian chicken?

Dalmatian chicken?

The road cuts through this nice little farm

The road cuts through this nice little farm

Portomarin is in SIGHT!

Portomarin is in SIGHT!

We saw a lot of these and finally found out it's a granary. Apparently this design keeps rodents out.

We saw a lot of these and finally found out it’s a granary. Apparently this design keeps rodents out.

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A couple of bums waiting for a bus

A couple of bums waiting for a bus

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This road seems much too nice to drive a car on.

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That’s some fungus!

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Just a little dog taking his cows for a walk

Just a little dog taking his cows for a walk

I think we should go that way

I think we should go that way

Some nice Germans took our picture

Some nice Germans took our picture

Crocus...in the FALL?

Crocus…in the FALL?

Stopped for coffee at this cute cafe

Stopped for coffee at this cute cafe

100 km left to Santiago!

100 km left to Santiago!

Sometimes we walked alone

Sometimes we walked alone

Pretty little flower along the path

Pretty little flower along the path

What is that plant?

What is that plant?

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Nice note left by Susanna. Her oranges were VERY tasty :)

Nice note left by Susanna. Her oranges were VERY tasty 🙂

View from the bridge entering Portomarin

View from the bridge entering Portomarin

View from the other side of the bridge

View from the other side of the bridge

Just what you want to see after hiking 22 km...STEPS!

Just what you want to see after hiking 22 km…STEPS!

That's one humongous leaf!

That’s one humongous leaf!

LIttle church in Portomarin circa 11th century

LIttle church in Portomarin circa 11th century

Beautiful view and lots of food at O Mirador in Portmarin

Beautiful view and lots of food at O Mirador in Portmarin

Church in the square in Portomarin

Church in the square in Portomarin

Sarria, our Camino begins

Our flights went pretty much exactly as scheduled which is unusual for me.  Even getting to the train station in Madrid was a piece of cake.  The train was a different story.  We’d decided against spending the extra money on a bed since the seat were supposed to extend to be almost flat, complete with foot rests. We knew we’d be exhausted after not sleeping on an overnight flight, waiting at Heathrow, then another 2 hour flight so figured we’d just sleep on the train. Wrong. They lied. None of us got much sleep on the 9 hour trip. Oh well. That makes tonight’s real bed all the more exciting!  Train stops weren’t announced either so we had to count on our stop happening at approximately the time they said it would. Luckily that worked out.

Studying the train route

Studying the train route

Our hotel was a short walk from the station and we only had to ask directions once. That’s because the man pointed it out and we could practically SEE it from where he was. We were tired, ok?

It was nice of them to have the room ready for us as it was only 8 am so we settled in and decided to go out exploring after finding a place that would serve eggs or some kind of meat for breakfast as we were all starving. Spaniards aren’t big on hearty breakfasts so they’re hard to find.

We backtracked for a bit, as in, going the opposite direction of Santiago de Compostela as we’ll be heading the right way tomorrow. We walked all over Sarria, got lost a couple of times, saw some churches, a cemetery and chatted with nice people. We even saw some kids dressed up for Halloween.

Octopus is a speciality of the Galicia region and after a bit of research we decided on Pulperia Luis, mapped out the directions and headed out. When it didn’t appear to be where we thought, I asked a couple of ladies in my pathetic Spanish. After some back and forth explanations, they pointed across the street…. at Pulperia Luis. We all got a good laugh. They blamed the van sitting in front of us. We blamed the scaffolding blocking the view.

The restaurant had big long tables with benches and wasn’t very busy but it was only 4 pm. No, we’re not that old, just weary and hungry. A young lady came over and asked “pulperia? octopus?”  Yep, we knew that’s all they serve and just one way so she brought us each a heaping wooden dish, a big bowl of bread, wine for Sue and water for Anita and I and we dug in. DELICIOUS! She explained what desert was and I understood cheese and that’s about it. She brought a hunk of cheese and a hunk of a red jelly thing with a couple of knives and again, we dug in. YUM! Good thing we had a bit longer walk back that it was supposed to be (someone got a little lost?) as we were all stuffed.

Today we put in about 15 km which is pretty good for 3 women who have had less than 5 hours sleep total over the last two nights. No naps allowed. We want to sleep tonight! Tomorrow’s a big day and our first official day of our Camino.

Slate rock roof

Slate rock roof

Inside the sanctuary of the monastery

Inside the sanctuary of the monastery

Beautiful mosaic road outside the monastery

Beautiful mosaic road outside the monastery

Part of a pumpkin display in front of a church

Part of a pumpkin display in front of a church

Camino bikers

Camino bikers

Mosaic floor inside the Monastero de Magdalena

Mosaic floor inside the Monastero de Magdalena

Monastery of Magdalena

Monastery of Magdalena

Interesting trees lining the streets of Sarria

Interesting trees lining the streets of Sarria

I don't know what this is about?

I don’t know what this is about?

Ham anyone?

Ham anyone?

We're loving this octopus!

We’re loving this octopus!

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Pulperia, a speciality of the Galicia region

Simple yet delicious!

Simple yet delicious!

That's a lot of stairs! Let's do it!

That’s a lot of stairs! Let’s do it!

Art is imitation or the reverse?

Art is imitation or the reverse?

Sarria

Sarria

Ducks!

Ducks!

Fun with mirrors on the Camino just outside of Sarria

Fun with mirrors on the Camino just outside of Sarria

Don’t let fear stop you

Have you ever mentioned something you did, or want to do to someone, only to have them respond “I couldn’t do that!”  Isn’t that a silly response? Of course you can do it. You just don’t want to badly enough.

I was born a fearful person. My father has video of my sister (a year younger) jumping down a step and me waiting for Mom to hold my hand so I could follow her. As a child I had to go back and get my Mom to walk me to school because I was afraid of a squirrel that was “looking at me”. I still hate squirrels. They’re furry rats with creepy eyes that I find scary. People laugh at me but many of them are afraid of spiders. Seriously? At least you can just step on those!

My fear of bees was so intense that it made blackberry picking terrifying. The buzzing deer flies sounded like bees, which made me so scared I’d feel like vomiting. Exposure to honey bees in a hive while helping a sister in law with fencing finally cured me of that. Her impatience with my “silliness” embarrassed me to the point that I was determined to overcome it. That was the key. I KNEW it was silly. I KNEW the fear was irrational. It took awhile but eventually my head convinced my heart and I can now tolerate buzzing bees with NO FEAR!

Heights are not as easy to deal with. I had such an intense case of acrophobia  that I had to get my sister to hold my hand so I could walk an eight foot length of 2″ X 6″ inch board to enter the house we were building. I would climb over several partitions rather than walk a board only 4′ off the ground across the top. I didn’t like elevators. I would scream if someone ELSE got too close to a cliff edge. I had to hold another persons hand to walk over a suspension bridge in a nearby park, and my stomach churned to the point that I was nauseated.

Yet today I jumped out of an air plane.

Skydiving

That’s ME!

I’m often amazed when people tell me I’m brave.  Who ME?  You’ve got to be kidding!  Yes, I love to travel. Now that my kids are grown and I’m reasonably financially stable, I DO it. Does it scare me? YES!  The few days before I go somewhere, I panic. I pack and unpack, worry myself sick about what will happen at home while I’m gone or  that my family can’t survive without me there.  I think about all the terrible things that can happen to me in the place I’m visiting, worry that my paper work is not in order and above all, I worry about about getting in an accident or stuck in traffic on the way to the airport.

So why, then, would I DO such things?  Because I’ve learned that in facing my fears and not giving in, I really LIVE. If I give in to fear, I don’t do anything. Once I’m in the airport and on my way, I relax.  That’s when the excitement kicks in and I realize I’m free.  Travelling gives me a sense of freedom that I’ve never experienced before.  I can be just me and not have to play a role. I’m not a business owner, committee member,  wife, mother, grandma….etc. I’m just Jodi. I can throw away all my preconceived ideas of what a country is like and just learn. Meeting new people of different ethnic groups in their own space is fascinating. The feeling of getting lost in a strange city where you don’t even speak the language is exhilarating.  The first few times it happened, it was terrifying but I’ve learned that fear is not reality.   Getting lost is a great way to really see a place. Having a deep conversation with a complete stranger is WAY more fun than small talk with acquaintances or colleagues.  Watching a documentary can’t replace the thrill of seeing a lion, elephant or giant tortoise in the wild, the wonderment of seeing ancient ruins up close and personally, the smell of an erupting volcano, a path through a eucalyptus grove or the rain forest, the euphoria of watching the sun rise over Machu Picchu, the thrill of swimming with wild dolphins or sea lions and the feeling of accomplishment in hiking a mountain or walking the camino.

So, when my daughter said she was considering going sky diving, I said “I’m coming too!” I’m pretty sure she was thinking “who are you and what have you done with my mother?” She knows how hard I tried to conceal fear when any of my kids did “scary” things. I never wanted to inflict my fear on them or let it stop them from experiencing whatever it was they wanted to try. She’s the one who made me try horse back riding (NO THANKS!) and zip lining.

Honestly? This time I wasn’t even scared. I listened carefully to the instructions and when it came time to jump, there was no time for fear. Justin, the instructor and guy on my back, just jumped and I ….. enjoyed. Just under a minute of free falling through the sky from 15,000′ is the ultimate in freedom. You feel like you’re floating, flying way above the clouds. Then there’s the weird misty feeling as you float through a cloud and see nothing but whiteness. When the parachute comes out there’s a bit of a tug and you can breathe easier. Justin spun us around and I witnessed the Thousand Islands and Rideau canal system from above. It was beautiful! Once I could see my grand kids on the ground I could even smile and wave. The landing was easy and when the parachute fell on top of us I could hear 3 year old Chloe laughing in excitement. What a rush! Once my feet were firmly on the ground, the realization of what I had just done kicked in. My legs shook. My heart pounded. That’s okay. I DID it, enjoyed it and was exhilarated!

The point in all this is that if a big chicken like me can do these things, certainly you can. Don’t let fear stop you. Stop over thinking. That’s still my mantra when something scares me “Don’t over think. Stop thinking and just DO it!” It’s okay to be cautious, prepared and keep safety in mind but never let fear stop you from doing something that piques your curiosity and opens your mind.

I still suffer from acrophobia but I don’t let it stop me. My stomach still drops and the nausea kicks in if I have to climb a ladder, cross a rope bridge or even just go down a steep hill. Oh well. What doesn’t kill me makes me stronger, right?

Auckland, Waiheke & Rangitoto Islands

April 4

It was a long drive back to Auckland but the scenery was gorgeous and Sue and I tried to keep Simon amused.
I’d been wondering about a crop of something that’s grown a lot here and finally Simon found a place to pull over so I could check it out. I jumped out, listed for electricity in the wire fence and stuck my hand through to pull out a plant and figure it out. That’s when I got zapped. Who knew there was a second fence? It was a pretty heavy duty wire too so I good a very good zap. After making sure I was okay of course, Simon laughed as did everyone just waiting on the bus. I don’t know why one would use so much electricity to protect a crop with no livestock anywhere near but they did and I got shocked. I still don’t know what the plant is either.
Simon dropped us all in various locations. Sue and I went to the Econo lodge. The room was tiny but Sue’s only staying one night and I just didn’t want a hostel for the last few nights.
On our walk to the ferry terminal we were entertained by a group of Hari Krishna’s singing and parading up and down the street. I picked up some information on various ferries and we met the others in a bar. We went to find a restaurant settling on a Korean / Malaysian place that turned out to be very tasty and reasonably priced. Melissa asked Sue for chopsticks but before passing them to her, asked if she wanted left or right chopsticks. The conversation that followed was just so funny I nearly peed my pants with laughter. Ya, you had to be there. Lots of hugs goodbye as we said farewell to some with whom we’d spent the last 24 days.

Outstanding in our field?  I'm a little shocked :)

Outstanding in our field? I’m a little shocked 🙂

April 5
Sue walked me down to the ferry and we said goodbye. We’ve had a great time together over the last 10 weeks and definitely make good travel partners. Maybe someday we’ll do it again 🙂
I hadn’t decided until I bought the ticket that I was going to Rangitoto Island and hopped on the ferry. The first thing I did was make the climb up the extinct volcano. That was a good, steady 2.2 km up. I walked around the crater and then into the lava caves. I hadn’t brought a flashlight and the second cave was VERY dark so I went around it.
Next I walked the historic beach trail, the fern trail and part of the coastal track in the other direction. Seems a lot of people come just for the volcano as I was pretty much alone on most of the other trails. Their loss as the trails were beautiful. I have no idea how far I walked altogether but after 4 hours I boarded the ferry back to Auckland.
After getting back to the hotel and cleaning up a bit, I grabbed my computer and went for a walk about. I found a nice cafe with comfy seats and free wifi and had a delicious smoked salmon omelet for “tea”. Another great day 🙂

Strange boat?

Strange boat?

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Colourful sailboats in the harbour

Colourful sailboats in the harbour

Another view from the top

Another view from the top

View from the top of the volcano.  Can you see Auckland?

View from the top of the volcano. Can you see Auckland?

Path to the volcano

Path to the volcano

April 6

The time changed last night so I scored an extra hour. Queen St. Was blocked off for a world triathalon so crossing it meant finding the right place where officials were stationed to get pedestrians across between bicyclists. After brekky at Burger King (free wifi and an egg bennie meal 🙂 I headed to the ferry. I didn’t leave myself enough time for pedestrian detours as I thought it was only for cars. I made it just in time to buy a ticket for Waiheke island . I sat on the top deck where everyone seemed to be speaking German. Interesting. Once on Waiheke I caught a tour bus and ended up at Onetangi where I asked the driver to point me in the direction of the Waiheke forest and bird reserve. I walked for a bit and realized I’d gone too far so turned around. I almost missed it again. The trail was really nice, through a dense bush with only the sound of birds and there was absolutely no one else there. I walked for about an hour on various trails before I started to realize that I was REALLY alone. As in, nobody knew where I was and there was no traffic here. As nice as that sounds I realized that no one would miss me if anything happened till at least tomorrow morning when, if something happened, I neglected to check out of my hotel room. I hadn’t told anyone where I was going. Not very responsible. Hmmm. So I walked a bit more but found a path that would end on a road. Once there I had no idea where I was but I could see the ocean and figured if I continued to walk down hill I’d eventually get there.
Once back in Onetangi I walked the beach for a bit and then got an ice cream. That’s a good lunch. I hopped on the bus again and got off near a winery. I walked around and checked a couple out, tried some samples and caught another bus to Oneroa where I checked out the shops. The stuff is really nice but the prices are out of my reach so I walked the beach instead. It was littered with shells. On the path down I finally got a decent photo of a tui bird.
I caught the bus to the ferry terminal thinking of doing the coastal walk but the ferry was just in so I decided to hop on instead. Lots of excitement was in the air in Auckland and I got there just in time to watch the last of the medal presentations for the triathalon. Cool. The streets were still fenced off so I had to take the long way back to the hotel.

Tui bird.  He makes all kinds of sounds

Tui bird. He makes all kinds of sounds

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Beach covered with shells

Beach covered with shells

The beach at Oneroa

The beach at Oneroa

Grape vines

Grape vines

The beach at Onetangi

The beach at Onetangi

A tui bird.  I heard him for a long time before I found him.

A tui bird. I heard him for a long time before I found him.

One the way south I saw all kinds of these pink lillies but they were finished by the time we headed North again.  These are the last of the season.....and the mail box is cute :)

One the way south I saw all kinds of these pink lillies but they were finished by the time we headed North again. These are the last of the season…..and the mail box is cute 🙂

Magnificent view on Waiheke

Magnificent view on Waiheke

Along the path in the Nature reserve

Along the path in the Nature reserve

Waiheke

Waiheke

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Passing Rangitoto on the way to Waiheke. I climbed that thing yesterday 🙂

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Rangitoto

Rangitoto

Rangitoto

Rangitoto

Dinna Waerie :)

Dinna Waerie 🙂

Path through a lava field on Rangitoto

Path through a lava field on Rangitoto

Lots of volcanic rock on Rangitoto

Lots of volcanic rock on Rangitoto

Rangitoto lava cave

Rangitoto lava cave

Rangitoto lava cave

Rangitoto lava cave

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Bird of paradise

Bird of paradise

April 7

My plan to sleep in was foiled by the noisy guy next door who left at 5:30 am and emergency vehicles’ sirens shortly after. Oh well.
I completely repacked my bags and decided I don’t have to check my bag on the way home. Although it’s easier not to have to carry it, it’s less hassle if anything happens in L.A. And much quicker when I get home.
I spent the day wandering Auckland and reflecting on my trip which, although I’ve had a few trials, has been pretty amazing. If I had to change anything I’d add another 10-14 days and see the west coast of Australia. I guess I’m really a traveller. After 10 weeks away, I miss my family but am not anxious to go home. I could easily keep going. However, now that the day has come I’m ready to get the flights over with and excited to see my family. Time to go home 🙂

Ferry terminal

Ferry terminal

Old carousel and a new tower.

Old carousel and a new tower.

playing with reflections.

playing with reflections.

This one's pretty cool.

This one’s pretty cool.

Auckland harbour

Auckland harbour

Just starting to open

Just starting to open

Open sesame

Open sesame

 

The bridge fully open

The bridge fully open

In jail in Christchurch, Kaikoura and swimming with wild dusky dolphins!

 

Wednesday, April 2

The jail was actually really comfortable and certainly the quietest city accommodation we’ve stayed in. I liked the signs all over the place referring to guests as inmates, parolees when they leave the building, reception as wardens and cleaning staff as life timers.

We had one stop at a cafe on the way to Kaikoura. Once there we checked in and went for a walk along the coastal trail in Kaikoura. We took our time, only got a little lost and spent about 3.5 hours enjoying the countryside. When we met up with the guys later we realized we weren’t the worst off, they forgot the name of the hostel AND where it was. Pretty funny and typical after staying in so many different places.

We joined the others for dinner and enjoyed a couple of games of pool before heading off to bed. Another great day 🙂

April 3 – HAPPY BIRTHDAY STEPHANIE!!

At 5:30 am 5 of us girls walked the 20 minutes to the dolphin encounter office where we got garbed up in heavy duty wetsuits and then waited. Twice through a an advertising video and we were getting ticked. Apparently departure time is 7 am and we just got to be the “lucky” ones to have to be first to get suited as they did it in shifts. Grrr.

We were all pretty grumpy when we got on the boat but then we saw the dolphins off in the distance and then they were swimming along the bow of the boat, obviously playing. We kept going as they said they were looking for the pod and where it was headed. The boat stopped and we were surrounded by dusky dolphins, jumping, twisting, somersaulting all over the place.

Entering the water wasn’t as cold as I thought it would be. The dolphins swam under and around me and, as directed, I hummed and made noise through my snorkel to attract them as well as diving down and swimming in circles with them. The inquisitive creatures checked me out and swam circles with me. I looked into the eyes of these wild creatures and they were definitely playing with me. It was such an amazing experience!

Back in the boat I shed my wetsuit and hosed off under the hot water hose but could see my breath so standing in a wet bathing suit was not an option. It took me forever to change as my fingers were so cold they wouldn’t work.

Finally back on deck I enjoyed a hot chocolate while trying to get photos of the jumping dolphins. Wonderful!

By 10 am Simon had picked us up from the centre and we were on the road to Picton to catch the ferry. One sandwich at the Dutch bakery wasn’t enough so I went and got a meat pie. Playing with dolphins works up an appetite!

The ferry crossing was gorgeous as the sun came out and the temperature sky rocketed. Some of us enjoyed the sunshine and great views from the deck (or as the Kiwis say “dick).

Wellington looked familiar. It seemed so long ago we were there. The group went out for Mexican food and some of us went 10 pin bowling. It’s definitely NOT my forte but was fun anyway.

Evidence of the earthquake.

Evidence of the earthquake.

 

Restart mall. The stores are in shipping containers.

Restart mall. The stores are in shipping containers.

Cardboard church

Cardboard church

Funky tree in the botanical gardens

Funky tree in the botanical gardens

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He's not going to let me get much closer

He’s not going to let me get much closer

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Poser

Poser

He's watching me with one eye

He’s watching me with one eye

Norway pines are strange looking trees

Norway pines are strange looking trees

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Quail

Quail

Pretty ducks

Pretty ducks

 

Playing with dolphins.  It circled me and stayed longer when I spun around too.

Playing with dolphins. It circled me and stayed longer when I spun around too.

 

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Dolphin antics

Dolphin antics

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jellyfish

jellyfish

Leaving Picton

Leaving Picton

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Melanie and Simon shenanigans

Melanie and Simon shenanigans

Wedderburn, 35 km on the Otago Rail trail and a very sore bum

Previous post: Doubtful Sound, really a Fiord. Deep Cove

Monday, March 31

Breakfast today was a real treat, bacon, eggs, toast, roast tomatoes, mushrooms and baked beans. Good fodder for a 35 km mountain bike ride over the Otaga Rail pass. It started out nicely but after 2 km my butt already hurt. I was worried. Then the numbness set in and the next while was nice with scenic views throughout the country side on the old rail bed. I was nervous as there was much loose gravel and stone which eventually made my hands and arms very sore. By the time we got to Oturehua I was ready for a break. We met Mel and Manuel at the cafe and had a nutritious lunch of an ice cream bar and for desert, an afghan. That’s a Kiwi thing made with corn flakes and chocolate with walnuts on top and was very good.

Back on the bike and the break had done my bum no favours. It was sore no matter how or where I put it. It was okay for a while but then we hit the 4 km hill. I ended up walking the bike the last kilometre as my thighs were burning and I was exhausted. The last 4 km was downhill which was awesome! The wind blew all the cobwebs out and it felt great but I kept braking as the speed was scary on the gravel.

After a nice shower of hot, then cold, then hot water I felt somewhat human again and grabbed an apple and a banana to balance my nutritious lunch.

The next adventure was curling. What a hoot! After a brief lesson 8 of us were let loose on two ices. Each threw 4 rocks just at the house. No one was holding a broom or anything. It was amazing how many great shots were made. We all had a blast and all were sorry the hour was over.

We made it back just in time to get laundry off the line and head to the pub for dinner. I had a veggie lasagna that was amazing. It had all sorts of stuff in it like squash and pesto. I even had cheesecake for dessert. No, I’m not losing any weight but all that exercise is worth something 🙂

Tuesday April 1

An early start meant we left in the dark and got to see the sunrise on the road over the mountains. We stopped at the Moereki boulders which Simon explained as fossilized dinosaur poop. Ya, April fools. 😉
A quick detour off the highway took us through Oamaru, a pretty town with lots of beautiful old limestone buildings.
The next stop was Timaru for lunch and some of us decided it was time for McDonald’s.
Upon arrival in Christchurch, we checked into the jail and were assigned our cells for the night. Simone did a quick drive around to show us where things are, gave us a map and we all headed off in different directions. Sue and I visited the Cathedral that crumbled during the earthquake 3 years ago and noted the devastation still easily viewed downtown. We checked out the Re-store which is a street of stores made from shipping containers as well as the million dollar cardboard cathedral. The botanical gardens were on the way back to the hostel, or it was supposed to a l be. We got just a little lost. Nothing asking a few kind strangers didn’t solve.
After stopping at Burger King for the free wifi we met the others and headed out to a Moroccan place for dinner. Sue and I shared a tapas selection and was it ever tasty! Nice.

Road kill?

Road kill?

Here's a REAL Canadian.  Gilles curls in shorts and sandals

Here’s a REAL Canadian. Gilles curls in shorts and sandals

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Helena threw some pretty awesome shots 🙂

We're still happy here.

We’re still happy here.

This last 12 km is going to kill us.

This last 12 km is going to kill us.

Biker chicks?

Biker chicks?

Serious biker chicks....and sheep

Serious biker chicks….and sheep

Tunnel #1

Tunnel #1

The track

The track

Beautiful view

Beautiful view

These rail road bridges are seriously hard on the bum

These rail road bridges are seriously hard on the bum

The Moeraki boulders

The Moeraki boulders

Moeraki boulders

Moeraki boulders

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Freshly hatched?

Doubtful Sound, really a Fiord. Deep Cove

Saturday March 29;

More amazing scenery greeted us this morning on the drive further south along the Southern Alps. Other than a couple of small towns and lots of farm land there was very little sign in habitation. At Te Anau we stopped for lunch and had to try the infamous New Zealand meat pie. My seafood pie was delicious and filled with chunks of real sea food, not just sauce :).
We met Brad at the ferry terminal and boarded the boat on Lake Manapouri where we heard a commentary as we enjoyed the beautiful views in Fiordland National Park. After disembarking we again boarded a bus and a 22 km drive to the hostel at Deep Cove, Doubtful Sound. During the week it’s used as an outdoor education centre.
After settling in Brad distributed clothing appropriate for Fiordland and we wondered why we brought clothes. Most of us donned our new adorable outfit and Brad took us for a walk in the bush. We were happy the rain stayed a way as it’s the rain forest and one of the wettest places in the world with about 6-7metres of rain in about 235 days per year. Brad was disappointed. He said we get more waterfalls when it rains. Okay. We were happy to just not get wet.
2 hours later and back at the hostel we discovered Melissa had been busy and was pretty much finished with dinner (tea) preparations. We enjoyed a delicious spaghetti, garlic bread and salad dinner AND Brad made peach crisp and custard for dessert. Nice!
We watched all the videos of some of them doing canyon swings, then a beautiful video about the fiords and then went for another walk. We tried walking in the dark but with no moon or stars it was pitch black. I used the screen on my camera to light our way. Brad trying calling a kiwi but I guess she went out for the evening as she never answered. We did get treated to a great display of glow worms though.

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Ahh Henry

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Gilles just having a chat with Henry, a weka that followed us for quite a while.

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The river through a cobweb

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Helena falls

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Lake Manipuri

March 30

I wimped out and went on a boat cruise rather than kayaking Doubtful Sound (actually a fiord). When he said about 4 hours I pictured my arms falling off in exhaustion and took the easy way out. Both transport methods had their merit. The kayaks got up close and personal with a waterfall or two AND got to paddle along with dolphins. On the cruise we got all the way out to the Tasman sea and the mouth of the fiord where we watched seals frolicking. The views were spectacular in spite of the drizzly, foggy morning. We were treated with TWO sightings of yellow crested penguins, the rarest penguins in the world. The second bunch were even porpoising for us! Apparently that’s the most efficient way for them to cover the greatest distance in the water. Along the bank we got to watch dolphins swimming and then jumping with their calves as they played in the wake from our boat. For all of us it was a sterling morning!
The other passengers disembarked and boarded buses. We walked the 15 minutes to the hostel where we finished cleaning up and boarded a bus to the ferry. Up one side of the mountain and down the other where the forest changes to that odd beech tree they used in Lord of the rings we drove. Another ferry and then we were back on our bus to Arrow town, a cute little town whose main street is lined with beautiful maple trees. After an ice cream we were back on the road passing wineries and the first commercial bungee jump.
The final stop was at Wedderburn where we had a nice lamb roast dinner at a pub and settled into the farm house.

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Helena Falls

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Just an incredible amount of plant life

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So many different kinds of moss

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Giant fern among the beech trees

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Sue is loving the pajamas they gave us to keep us toasty 🙂

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A view of the Fiord

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Pretty little fantail that followed us. He’s welcome to the sandflies!

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Giant fingers

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Opossum, one of many introduced pests

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A bar in the middle of nowhere….fisherman’s paradise

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Seal colony at the mouth of the fiord on the Tasman sea

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A couple of the many waterfalls

The steamship cruising in Lake Wakatipu

The steamship cruising in Lake
Wakatipu

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The giraffe in Lake Manipuri

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The ferry on Lake Manipuri

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View of the Fiord from the highest point on the road. You can barely see it through the clouds

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Porpoising yellow crested penguins

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Yellow crested penguins!

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Clouds over the peaceful Fiord

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Momma dolphin and her calf

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Bottle nose dolphins playing

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Bottle nose dolphins

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Queenstown and Lake Wakatipu

View over Queenstown on the drive in

View over Queenstown on the drive in

A bra fence.  I don't know why ;)

A bra fence. I don’t know why 😉

Lake Wanaka

Lake Wanaka

Thursday, March 27

It was a chilly morning at 5 degrees and all our pants were still damp on the clothesline we’d strung in our room after doing a load of wash the night before so we skyped home and relaxed till it warmed up a bit.
We walked down to the lake and up one side to check out the boat tours and lake side adventure activities. Everything seemed too expensive for what you get so we decided to just go for a nice walk and headed the other way to the peninsula. There was a natural garden and a path that followed the lake shore so we just kept walking….and walking. There were signs along the way to a fall’s bridge so we thought, why not? We got there to find it was just a one way bridge over a dam that was barely flowing. Oh well. The walk was nice and there was lots to see along the way. On the other side of the bridge was a sign; 9.5 km to Queenstown. Yikes. We’d walke 10 km? That meant another 10 km back. A couple of km in we left the path for the high way, found a gas station and asked about the bus. It was $5.50 so, after a brief consult, I bought a bottle of water and we continued to walk. Ya, we’re cheap.
By the time we got back it was 7 pm and we were tired so decided ice cream would be a great dinner. So….we walked some more. The ice cream was worth it. Mochachino for me and rum and raisin for Sue. We slept very well 🙂
Friday March 28
A skype home with the grand kids and we set off for the day. The gondola ride was beautiful and we could watch bungee jumpers and cliff gliders on either side. The views from the top were even more amazing and we could see for miles. Of course no day is complete without a hike so we continued further up and did the skyline loop as well as several off shoots from it. After rewarding ourselves again with ice cream (hokey pokey and choconana today) we took the gondola back down.
There were shopped and walked around for a while before stopping for an infamous Fergburger. A bit more walking and a stop at the Pig and Whistle for a beer. Yep, we know how to reward ourselves 🙂

Sue seriously enjoys a Fergburger

Sue seriously enjoys a Fergburger

Yep, this is GOOD!

Yep, this is GOOD!

The infamous Fergburger

The infamous Fergburger

You can see where we walked from here.

You can see where we walked from here.

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Sharing my ice cream with jelly belly

Sharing my ice cream with jelly belly

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It’s a maple tree! They’ve planted a few up top and they’re nicely changing colours too 🙂

Think he can carry me too?

Think he can carry me too?

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Another view from up top

Another view from up top

Beautiful walk

Beautiful walk

 

Lupins!

Lupins!

Vancouver's there but no Toronto.

Vancouver’s there but no Toronto.

Gondola ride

Gondola ride

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Wake boarding!

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Patch work seagull?

The Remarkables

The Remarkables

This looks like fun!

This looks like fun!

That's one big tree

That’s one big tree

The steamship cruising in Lake Wakatipu

The steamship cruising in Lake Wakatipu

 

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I didn’t think we walked that fast but ….. okay then.

Franz Joseph Glacier, Lake Wanaka, Lake Matheson

Tuesday, March 25

Good thing we saw it yesterday as we woke up socked in by clouds. We spent a lazy morning then walked to town to check out the options. Basically we could walk UP to the glacier for $75 or walk up to it and abseil INTO it for $100. OR we could shuttle to the fox glacier and walk on it for $200. Seems like a lot of money to walk on ice. I can strap on my snowshoes and walk on the lake at home for free 🙂 I know it’s not the same but….a day of doing nothing is kind of appealing on such a rainy day after being busy for the last couple of months.
So we walked a bit, hung around a lot, updated the blog, edited photos, talked on skype and then….the clouds dissipated and the sun came out. Shortly after 5 pm we walked back to the helicopter place but he said no, there’s still a big cloud on the landing site on the glacier. Bummed we left and ran into Simon who suggested we try another place. THEY were flying so we handed over credit cards, did the safety spiel and walked to the helipad. Up we went. What a GREAT ride! It was the fastest 20 minutes of my life but it was worth it. I got to jump on top of the Franz Joseph glacier! The snow was like spring snow; heavy, wet and grainy. Sue tried to make a snow angel but it was too hard. Lots of fun and a great way to end an otherwise pretty boring day 🙂 .To top it off some of us purchased tickets to an all you can eat pizza dinner which was pretty darn awesome. Some then entered a limbo contest. I don’t know howrat they could do that after gorging on pizza so I just waddled back to my room and managed to connect with home on skype.

Wacky Wednesday

The temperature was supposed to reach 20 so I dressed in shorts despite it being maybe 3 degrees in the early morning. As we drove south the sun rose higher to give us a crackin’ day. We stopped at Lake Matheson where 5 of us opted to walk the 4.5 km around the lake. Our reward was some spectacular views of Mt Cook and beautiful reflections in the glass like surface of the lake along a pretty path lined with giant ferns, palms and very tall trees often covered in moss.
After another stop at a view point at the place where the road was finished when north met south we continued through winding roads past gorgeous scenery.
We stopped for views of Lake Wanaka and the town for lunch and carried on a little inland through Otago region. It’s much drier there which is strange being such a short distance from the wettest part of the country. After a top at a bra fence we drove through to Queenstown, adventure capital of New Zealand.

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Wacky Wednesday

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Just another gorgeous view along the road

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Plane flying over Mount Cook

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Morning dew on cobwebs … and a spider 🙂

 

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Just the reflection of Mount Cook over Lake Matheson

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Needs no explanation 🙂 Lake Matheson

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Beautiful Lake Matheson

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Just before the clouds opened up over Lake Matheson. Mount Cook is hidden

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Franz Joseph glacier

That's me in a helicopter landing on Franz Joseph glacier :)

That’s me in a helicopter landing on Franz Joseph glacier 🙂

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I’m on top of the world! Well…Franz Joseph glacier anyway 🙂

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Sue making snow angels...not working so well

Sue making snow angels…not working so well

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Yay! We’re here!

Those crevices can be 85 metres deep.  See our reflection??

Those crevices can be 85 metres deep. See our reflection??

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Franz Joseph from the walking path

West Coast New Zealand, Punakaki, Pancake rocks and seals

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There's no Toronto sign :(

There’s no Toronto sign 😦

View from the point past the seal colony.  Wow!

View from the point past the seal colony. Wow!

Weka (not a kiwi) :)

Weka (not a kiwi) 🙂

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Cute little New Zealand fur seal

Cute little New Zealand fur seal

One of the views along the west coast road

One of the views along the west coast road

Our motley crew

Our motley crew

 

Monday, March 24

Since no one signed up for optional activities we had a relaxing morning and Simon even made some of us poached eggs on toast. Luxury.

The first stop was the town of Greymouth where we all went on a search for something to wear for Wacky Wednesday. Could be interesting. A little futher down the road we drove over a bridge that was actually a railroad track …a little scary

We stopped in a small town for a tour of a Jade (green stone) factory where they’ve been fortunate to stock pile the stone before the cessation of mining in the 1990’s after the rights to the land were given back to the Maori.

After a brief lunch stop at a lake along the way we headed to Z Franz Joseph, one of 16 national parks in New Zealand and home of the glaciers.

Since we arrived early, we checked into various activities and then went for a walk to see the glacier. The clouds nicely parted enough for us to get a view of it. Considering the weather forecast, that’s all we might get so we were pretty thrilled.

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The path to our cottage in the rain forest

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Another place I could have stayed longer….

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Only tourists take photos of cows?

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Jumping for joy?

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Lots of wave action

Lots of wave action

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Cooperative dinner preparations

Cooperative dinner preparations

Sunset over the ocean

Sunset over the ocean

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Abel Tasman National park, South Island, New Zealand

Saturday, March 22

Thankfully the only residual effects of my fish experience is a good case of reflux. I was hoping to walk it off on the 13 km hike to Marahau. The first bit was a good, brisk hill but after that it was just a nice rolling track through forest that followed the ocean. There were many gorgeous view points and Sue, Helena and I stopped at several beaches.

Back at our accommodation for the night (Old MacDonald’s farm), I was taking a shower when I heard a baby chattering so rushed out. Sure enough, It was Amy with her sister and Aviah. Awesome! Aviah is as adorable in person as she is in photos 🙂 I got to meet most of Amy’s family and we enjoyed the afternoon together. Emma and Katherine joined Sharon, Amy and I and joined the group at the Fat Tui for burgers. Now those were BURGERS. Wow.

I said goodbye to the girls. It was SO nice of them to drive out and visit with me. It was too bad Terence couldn’t come but so great to get to know Amy a little better.

Simon, Sue and I walked back to the cabins and it was cold. There was definitely a fall chill in the air. Simon started a fire and raved about what a wonderful fire it was. We gazed at the sky full of stars and got the bright idea of taking photos. Manuel, Simon and found a dark spot and experimented with our cameras, tripods and I used a chair. Necessity is the mother of invention and it worked just fine. 🙂

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Starfish look different here.

Starfish look different here.

View from the trail near Anchorage

View from the trail near Anchorage

View from the trail in Abel Tasman National park

View from the trail in Abel Tasman National park

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Stillwell beach in Abel Tasman

Stillwell beach in Abel Tasman

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Pretty little fantail

Pretty little fantail

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View of a beach from the trail.

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A sailboat AND a sea gull (hehehe)

Yes, again I find myself photographing sea gulls :P

Yes, again I find myself photographing sea gulls 😛

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Love the views from the trail…..everywhere you look is a photo

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Just another view along the Tasman coastal trail

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Just a piece of the gorgeous trail

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I can see for miles and miles ….

Hanging out with some faces carved in a stump in a gallery in Mahau

Hanging out with some faces carved in a stump in a gallery in Mahau

Amy, Aviah and I catching up

Amy, Aviah and I catching up

Gotta love Fat Tui burgers!!

Gotta love Fat Tui burgers!!

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That’s a LOT of stars in the sky!

One of many views on the road from Picton to Abel Tasman

One of many views on the road from Picton to Abel Tasman

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Yes, it's a seagull :P

Yes, it’s a seagull 😛

Melanie loves it here :)

Melanie loves it here 🙂

Ohaukune, Taihepe & Wellington. A big carrot, some boots & the capitol city

Thursday, March 20

Previous post  Waitomo caves, Glow worms, Tongariro National park, Whakapapa ski hill

Since we didn’t have to leave till 8 am AND the hostel provided a really nice towel I enjoyed a leisurely morning shower. Ahhh, it’s wonderful how the little things make me happy 🙂 I even boiled some eggs and Simon did his famous poached eggs.

We headed south and the first stop was the village of Ohaukune which means carrot, therefore there is a large carrot statue which, of course, created a great place for more silly photos.

Next stop was the gumboot throwing capital, Taihepe where Simon borrowed a pair from the visitor’s centre and we held our own contest. Gilles was the champion and threw his gumboot about 20 metres.

The lunch stop was in town with outlet stores so Sue and I went shopping. I don’t know what the big deal is with these Katmandu stores. At 70% off their prices are almost reasonable. There were a couple of places selling merino, alpaca and possum wool garments. I almost bought a sweater and socks but …. just don’t feel like carrying them. So I got a $5 t-shirt as I’ve lost one and it will be nice to have something new to wear. Sue got a pair of light pants. Such big shoppers we are. We figured Subway would be a quick place to get a sandwich. Not this one. It was rocket science. They were out of cookies so I wanted to substitute chips for one in the meal deal. The girl just couldn’t figure that out without charging me an extra $2. For about 7 chips? I don’t think so. Oh well. I didn’t need them anyway 🙂

After checking into the Nomads hostel in Wellington, Sue and I set out exploring and found a library with wifi. Awesome. We sent some quick messages, did a hasty blog post update and we walked to the harbour and checked out the world’s windiest city. The last dinner with this group was fun with Ryan and Simon entertaining us by doing the Haka. Not bad for a Canadian, eh Ryan?!

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Let me out of this gum boot!

Nice carrot?

Nice carrot?

Had to fit in one more photo of Mount Doom

Had to fit in one more photo of Mount Doom

Friday, March 21

The ferry crossing was beautiful and we were blessed with gorgeous weather for it. The views of the Malborough sounds as we approached Picton were spectacular. After claiming our bags we set out to find lunch. Most stopped at the Dutch bakery. I should have. The shop claimed to have the best fish and chips for miles. I got fish and salad. The fish was greasy and not very good but I was hungry so just ate it.
The very windy road to Marahau was incredibly scenic with the mountains off in the distance getting closer and closer. Upon arrival we climbed into the water taxi and our skipper towed us to the ocean with a tractor. Since it was low tide he drove it quite far out before getting off and actually launching the boat. I jokingly asked him if the tractor tires were full of air so it would float when the tide came in. Sure, but he was hoping someone would come and get it first. Interesting
We were pounded about for a while in the surf and dropped off at our home for the night, the floating Backpackers at Anchorage. Good thing we didn’t bring much as there’s certainly not much room. Our beds were below deck and we were crammed pretty tight. It actually ended up being quite cozy and the gentle rocking of the boat made for a great sleep.
Some went swimming and jumping off the boat and I would have loved to join them but by the then my digestive system was protesting the fish in no uncertain terms. I even skipped dinner (unheard of for me) and just went to lie down and hope it went away.

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Wellington

Water taxi...taxi to the water

Water taxi…taxi to the water