I’ve travelled all over the world using public transit but not in Canada. Sure, I could drive my car but I don’t love it and driving alone is NOT my idea of relaxing when I don’t know where I’m going, especially when it involves city driving. Via rail is expensive but it’s not bad if you plan ahead, as in, book your train tickets at LEAST a month in advance, and when there’s only one of you.

I love the train. You don’t have to arrive 3 hours early, separate your liquids, go through ridiculous security and airport nonsense. Onboard you can get up and walk around and the seats are far more comfortable. When there’s a stopover / connection you can leave the station and walk where ever you want. The train usually gets you right down town so you can often get where you’re going on foot.

Quebec City
August, 2023

Thus I arrived at the Gare du Palais train station in Quebec City and walked uphill to the Auberge Internationale de Quebec. (https://hiquebec.ca/) It’s a large hostel with an assortment of accommodation choices. I chose a bed in a 8 bed female dorm. It’s perfect for the solo traveller. There’s plenty of opportunity to meet people or you can be as isolated as you want. Breakfast was included so I started the next 4 days with lots of coffee and bagels before setting out. If you stay more than 3 days they offer a free bus pass as well. Nice!

I had 3 full days in Quebec so started off with a walking tour provided by the hostel. It was ok but Yves did all his talking in French and English which meant for half of it we were standing around waiting. Ugh. So, after spending a couple hours wandering and checking out some of the places he’d mentioned, I joined another walking tour led by Samuel Dubois. That one was excellent! Find it here: https://www.afreetourofquebec.com/book-online

Montmorency Falls

If you stay more than 3 nights the hostel provides a free bus pass. I hadn’t planned on using the bus until I realised I could get to Montmorency falls that way. Perfect. You can catch bus #800 in Youville, a 6 minute walk away from the hostel, and take the 40 minute ride to the waterfall. The $7 entry fee is worth it as I spent several hours there. You can climb down the 487 steps or take the gondola for $15 return. Of course I did the steps. The climb UP was HOT and by the time I got back up I was ready for a break. I found a picnic table occupied by two welcoming ladies from Oakville and had a nice chat.
Next I did the short nature hike and the suspension bridge before catching the bus back to the city.

There I had dinner at a restaurant recommended by the hostel. Buffet du Antiquaire (https://www.restoquebec.ca/resto/buffet-de-lantiquaire-quebec/6918/en/ ) did not disappoint. I had the meal of the day while sitting on a table on the street where I could watch people. The server was very impressive. He spoke to me in English, the table next to me in Spanish and several others in French and he switched languages seamlessly. Wow!

Quebec City

The last day was spent wandering. I walked the plains of Abraham, including the nature walk. I walked the governor general’s promenade. Both were really nice. I also tried to walk the wall as I was told you CAN walk around the old city on, or beside it . It’s apparently 4.8 km and surrounds the old city. At one point it was fenced and I couldn’t carry on.
I took the ferry to Levis and back as that had been recommended. Meh. I don’t get it. It’s a boat you ride across the river. Then you ride it back. OK?

For dinner I walked all the way to Saint Roch to find, what I was told, is the best poutine in Quebec city. I’ve never understood what’s so wonderful about poutine (I know, bad Canadian) but decided when in Rome….I ordered the special. There was lots of stuff piled on top of fries. It was a LOT of food and I couldn’t finish it. It was okay but I’m still not a lover of poutine If you want to try it, go here. As far a poutine goes, it IS really good.
https://www.chezgastonquebec.ca/ Chez Gaston

There’s a lot of history in Quebec City and I learned a lot. Since I don’t speak French I was a little concerned that I ‘d have trouble understanding things but I need not have worried. Everyone I met was kind and did their best to speak English. As soon as I said BONJOUR they could hear that French was not my forte 😉

RIMOUSKI – Domaine Floravie

The next day I boarded the bus (https://www.orleansexpress.com to Rimouski. Yes, the train is a bit cheaper but the times are terrible. I arrived around 2 pm and walked to the grocery store to get enough food for the next 3 day as I was going to be nowhere near town. Then I called a taxi to take me to Domain Floravie https://domainefloravie.com/?utm_source=GMBlisting&url_medium=organic

There I spent the next 3 days relaxing, hiking, walking and exploring the waterfront of the St Lawrence River. I also kept my eyes peeled for whales but never saw any. Donald (the owner) says he does occasionally see them.

Here is where I wished I had my car. There is no public transit so no way for me to get to the Bic National park besides walking. It’s only 8 km away so quite doable but the weather wasn’t great. I could get there only for it to start raining. The hiking trail is about 15 km so add that to the 16 there and back, it’s a lot. Even for me 😉
The property at Domaine Floravie is beautiful and I found plenty to keep me amused for 3 days anyway. I highly recommend it, especially for a couple wanting some time away as the tiny cottages are very private, self contained, adorable and have amazing views.

Barnabe Island, Rimouski

Donald kindly offered to drive me back to town at the end of my stay. Not only that, he drove around and showed me where things are, including his favourite crepe restaurant. What fantastic hospitality!

First thing I did was follow Donald’s advice and walk the waterfront trail. Once you get past town, it’s a gorgeous walk. On the way back I stopped at the tourist centre and got some info. The next day I followed her advice and headed to the marina. There I purchased passage on a zodiac boat to Barnabe Island. ($28 return) https://tourismerimouski.com/en/attrait/ile-saint-barnabe/

There are lots of trails on the island. It’s 6 km long and 3 km wide (at the widest point) and uninhabited. There’s a small museum and a few campsites but I saw very few people. I started with the water front as it was low tide and the best opportunity to see seals. I found a couple playing in the water and sat and watched them for a while. Next I did some of the inland trails, hoping to see moose. I didn’t. Honestly I was kind of glad as they’re big and scary looking.

By the time I got back to town I’d logged close to 30,000 steps and I was tired. After a delicious crepe dinner I went to bed early in preparation for the trip home. My train was to leave at 2 am. Yuck.

I thoroughly enjoyed this visit to Quebec and was very impressed with the hospitality. Most people were eager to speak English so don’t worry if your French, like mine, is abysmal. So, one day I shall come and explore more of the Gaspe peninsula but not by public transit. In order to see the best of it you need to get out of the cities.

Just go!